The Commandant was a sort of Cossack savage of low rank, but, although generally under the influence of drink, always treated me with military respect. His garrison consisted of about fifteen persons, distinguished from the villagers by being allowed, occasionally, to shave. The women were repulsive-looking, and all wore great boots. The Commandant always presented me with an official return of the state of his garrison, which no one could decipher. Drunkenness was the order of the day. A small log-shed with a hole about eighteen inches square was the only receptacle for such as could not stand. Into this they were thrust head foremost by those that could, and from which they came out, I suppose, when able to do so without help. The evening before we sailed some of our officers assembled for a convivial evening at the Commandant’s. In the middle of a song his wife withdrew behind a screen that divided the apartment, and a few minutes afterwards a noise, as from a kid, announced the birth of a child, which proved to be the son and heir. Instead of retiring and leaving the lady in her trouble, a toast was drunk and an impromptu song in honour of the little stranger. I had called on the lady two days before and observed nothing particular except that she looked like a Cossack without a beard. [Sidenote: Aug. 8.] Having completed coaling (coal six roubles per ton), and settled accounts, we weighed. Some twelve miles to the southward we had heard of a place, “Adnginoo,” with a river, and fish and crystals to be picked up; we came to abreast of it. The river, like all others along the coast, has a bar entrance--a short distance up it is exceedingly picturesque. Some of our party ascended in the light boats of the Gelyaks. There were the usual small villages at the mouth, with dried fish, sleigh dogs, confined bears, smell and dirt. Natives, a quiet inoffensive race, their only weapon a fish spear. One seining party had several good hauls, getting, besides salmon, what our fishermen called cucumber smelts; they certainly smelt of cucumber, and were good eating. Several fish were also taken. I pinned one down in the river with a boat-hook. With the dense wood and covert along the coast and mountains the nearly total absence of any living thing was remarkable. High up the river, a rather peculiar mussel was found, so thick and firmly implanted that the bottom of the river had the appearance of pavement. I obtained specimens. A fresh breeze having sprung up from the westward, we hurried our sportsmen on board and weighed under sail. There might have been crystal caves in the neighbourhood, but we found nothing beyond broken stones with small pieces of crystal attached. With the dredge I had no success. CHAPTER XCIV THE CHINA COMMAND [Sidenote: 1868. Flag in _Rodney_, Aug. 14.]