The consternation among the boats as the wave caused by our speed lifted them on to the banks, and occasionally washed a looker-on off his legs, was rather amusing. The Taku Forts appeared in good repair, and the pilot reports some heavy American guns being got into position: the coolies at work stating that in one year’s time they will be prepared to rid themselves of us barbarians! It was sunset before we arrived at Tientsin; it being within a day or two of the races, the promised horses of Mr. Porter were not forthcoming, but the boats ordered by Mr. Consul Maguire were ready, and it was decided by His Royal Highness that we should start that evening after dinner. A steamer overtook us and kindly gave us a copy of the _Overland Express_, by which it appears that my successor and his staff had left England on August 5. Unwelcome news; although one could not help being glad at Kellett’s recovery. The boats by which we ascend the river are comfortably fitted for sleeping; then we have a messing boat, a cooking boat, and one for the servants. Rougemont and Stanhope, with the rest, including Chow-Wang the mandarin, who has always accompanied me. We are eleven boats; each bearing a small flag, white with a red cross, St. Andrew’s shape. [Sidenote: Peiho River, Oct. 3.] I am afraid the Sabbath is somewhat lost sight of, the only consolation being that the tracking coolies might have been employed in a less congenial way. They have no weekly rest-day. Our volunteer provider and supervisor of everything is pronounced to be an impostor, and Mandarin Chow-Wang is a useless expense. However, Scott’s and Stanhope’s servants and my man Aitken do their best; the great difficulty being to keep the boats together, that with the provisions being always out of the way. Grapes, water-melons, and onions to be purchased at the villages. The water is too muddy even to wash in. A hot, dry, south-westerly wind blowing much dust, books and papers curling up; preferable to wet and damp though! [Sidenote: Oct. 5.] Still moving up the river; but our progress has been slow owing to the difficulty of keeping so large a number of boats together. However, all seem jolly and good-tempered; no one more so than our good-natured Prince, whom every one delights in. Yesterday (4th) at Hosinu, the half-way town, we found that good fellow Conolly, who had come to meet us from the Legation, bringing me a letter from Sir Rutherford, and to the Prince a hearty welcome. Nothing could have been more absurd than the plan laid down for so large a party by our self-appointed adviser, Mr. Porter of the Imperial Customs. The idea of riding up in the cool and splendid weather of September is all well enough for one or two, but he undertook to mount our nine selves, four European servants, and convey luggage, to do which he proceeded from Nagasaki on board the _Adventure_ in advance.