We traversed nearly three miles of narrow, densely-populated streets before we reached the Tartar yamun. Robertson had the good taste not to alter anything beyond the addition of a little European furniture. The building was old, and I occupied a bed which had most likely been slept in by some Tartar general when they captured Canton from the Chinese in the seventeenth century. At the back of the house were a court and out-buildings, and the remains of a large building which caught fire, nobody knew how, when occupied by our troops in 1861. Beyond this again was a park-like enclosure, containing small hills, trees, and deer. Although not more than 15 acres, the extent was great when you consider that it was in the heart of a densely-populated walled city. The weather was bad, and we did not see half of what we might had we had more time. Nothing, however is more curious than the city itself, the shops and the narrow streets along which our chairmen travelled at what appeared a reckless pace, bellowing to make people get out of the way, but somehow hurting nobody. We visited some of the prisons containing culprits under sentence of death; they appeared indifferent as to their fate, looked and laughed at us. Others at work making or embroidering clothes--not for themselves. About 1500 are executed annually! At the entrance gate to the Tartar General’s yamun are large figures of nondescript animals carved in granite and of great antiquity. [Sidenote: May 17.] My friend Robertson bore a strong resemblance to Lord Nelson and Lord John Russell. Whether he had guests or not he sat daily at the head of his dinner-table in great form. A row of servants on the right, with several dogs in front, all looking equally solemn. On the left was a long sideboard variously ornamented; plates and cups of silver. After dinner, when everything was quiet, I noticed rats playing about, picking up crumbs the Consul had thrown out during dinner. I drew his attention to them and proposed to set the dogs on; to which Robertson objected, saying they did no harm, and that if frightened they would throw out such a stench of musk no one could stay in the room. The deer in his park would scarcely move out of his way. Took leave of our kind host, who would accompany us to the steamer, lying ready alongside a wharf built in front of the site of the old factories, where, some quarter of a century before, when in command of the _Dido_, I had passed many pleasant days. Not a vestige remains to indicate the site.