We found a French man-of-war, _La Place_, from Yokohama, probably sent to see what we were after. She landed two ugly priests, anxious to commence their work of mischief. The Russian gunboat _Garnastai_, commanded by a fine fellow, Count Lütkee, his mother English, also from Yokohama, on his way north. I had to receive visits from the Governor and Lieutenant-Governor--two gentleman-like, agreeable fellows. Landed with Commodore to visit Mr. Alfred Howard and look at his curios. A nice collection of bronzes as well as pictures and small ivories. A small collection of shells! [Sidenote: July 30.] After having received and paid above visits and invited Mr. Mitford of the Legation to come with us, at 5 P.M. weighed, with the intention of inspecting the coal-mines, said to be of good quality, at Twanai, and then rejoining the Minister at Nigata: the necessity of economising fuel not permitting _Serpent_ and _Basilisk_ accompanying us. [Sidenote: Twanai, July 31.] As we stood into the bay, at the bottom of which Captain Bullock had marked as about the spot we should find Twanai, we were puzzled at the number of villages, but after stopping and firing a gun he observed a boat coming out from the village we least expected, and Mitford soon recognised his friend Mr. Gower, the gentleman who had undertaken the contract from the Tycoon Government to work the coal-mine so many years. We found no shelter near the village. [Sidenote: Yesso Island.] Opposite the valley up which the principal mine is situated, the coast is rocky, but the season being fine we came to in 10 fathoms off the village of Tomari, where Mr. Gower resided for the present. The town and harbour of Twanai, to which the coal, when worked, must be sent for re-shipment, is seven miles further to the eastward: a bar harbour, but with a snug anchorage, protected by a sand-bank; with six or seven fathoms inside. CHAPTER LXXXIX THE CHINA COMMAND [Sidenote: 1867. Flag in _Salamis_, July 31.] We had heard much of the bears in this island of Yesso, and Mr. Gower was pressed for information. There were plenty of them, and two had been down for several nights running to rob a hut on the beach, only half a mile distant from the village, of salt fish. Lieutenant Pusey, a keen sportsman, having obtained a guide, undertook to lie in wait for these bears; he found their traces, the marks where they had removed the thatch to get at the fish, and patiently remained until daylight, but Bruin did not put in an appearance. Pusey was, however, sanguine enough to try again the following night, with same success: the whole country round was either covered by forest or was one mass of rank vegetation over six feet high, from which it would have been impossible to have dislodged any game. During the two days we allowed ourselves, weather permitting, to remain, one was to be devoted to a ride to Juranai, where we were to see the aborigines, the other to visit the coal-mines. [Sidenote: Aug. 1.]