When we got back, a swell from westward had set the _Salamis_ rolling, and made us anxious about the party who had crossed the bar to fish the river. About 7 P.M. they were seen coming off, but not without having been swamped, with the loss of rods and other gear. A heavy roller filled the boat. They wisely sat still until the two following waves had broken over them, and then jumped out and hauled their boat. They were assisted by the kind natives, who refused any remuneration for their trouble. We took leave of our kind and obliging friend, Mr. Gower, who, after having come on board to see me off, hurried on shore again to send assistance over the hills to the missing fishing party. We got under way at 7 P.M., and proceeded to the southward under easy steam. [Sidenote: Aug. 4.] Just before sunset we made out the smoke of two steamers, which proved to be the _Basilisk_ and _Serpent_, preparing to take their departure from Nigata; but making us out, did not weigh. Captain Bullock having left with us directions where our boats might safely cross the bar, they left soon after daylight. [Sidenote: Nigata, Japan, Aug. 5.] Nigata is a large town, situated on the left bank, about three miles from the mouth. It belongs to the Tycoon, and but for the insuperable objection to a bar, and the exposure to all winds from N. to S.W. in the anchorage outside, it would most likely have been one of the new Treaty Ports. As it is, it carries on a large trade with junks. The Governor had sent off officers with the usual compliments, whom we met as we proceeded on shore. I had left the ship as early as 8.30, fearing the Governor might have come off to wait upon me himself, but I believe he had no intention of doing anything of the sort. The officers we met turned about and accompanied us, not only to the shore, but never left us until we were again afloat; they were spies, but under the happy delusion that we imagined them to be a guard of honour! However, they did not molest or interfere. Our object was to see the town and shops, and they took us to them. The town is clean, intersected by canals, and the population, although naturally anxious to see the strangers, did not molest us in any way. On our way back we were requested to visit a rather imposing temple, but thinking it was an attempt to get me to call on the Governor, whose duty it was to wait on me, I passed on. But afterwards, on their explaining that if I would walk in and partake of refreshment, the Governor would call on me there, I went back.