Stood into river, passed Taku Forts, and after the usual grounding at the bends and fouling of junks came to for the night. [Sidenote: Peking, Sept. 27.] Moored off the British Consulate Tientsin. Received with the greatest kindness by Sir Rutherford and Lady Alcock; under their auspices saw much of Peking, which to the ordinary barbarian is not allowed. Our visit was specially marked by a most enjoyable riding excursion to the Great Wall of China. The party consisted of our Minister, Lady Alcock and her charming daughter, Miss Lowder, Conolly, one of the Secretaries of our Legation, Risk, Suttie, and Harry Stephenson. Riding in easy stages, the native servants were always one stage ahead, so that on arrival, after a refreshing bath, we found a table arranged with every possible luxury. Striking almost due north we stopped for the night at Cha-ho. Thence to the Ming Tombs, approached through an avenue of animals of colossal proportions, carved in stone--elephants, camels, and horses; and that they were not without artistic merit is proved by the fact that some of our horses whinnied and approached these stone representations in evident recognition. [Sidenote: Oct.] We slept that night at Nankow. Next morning rode to Kou-li-yeng, our halting-place for the night. Next day to Miyü-hsien, where we had an admirable dinner. Ku-pee-Kou, by the Great Wall of China, was the turning-point for home, visiting on the road Chao-tu-Chiang, Loo-shan, Niulang-shein, Saw-Chia-tieu and Semho, our last halting-place before re-entering the hospitable legation at Peking. We varied the amusement by an occasional raid on the wild geese and partridges met with on the road. I was much impressed by the evidence of former splendour and prosperity--temples carved in marble; baths fed by natural hot springs; all in decay and covered with dust inches thick, the collection of centuries--so much so, that names inscribed on the dust, with dates many years previously, were as sharply defined as if written yesterday. [Sidenote: Oct. 25.] This delightful visit over we returned to Nagasaki, calling _en route_ at Cheefoo. A short stay in Japan, and we went south again, anchoring in Hong Kong on November 10, when I shifted the flag to _Princess Charlotte_. Then to Shanghai, where old memories and old friends clustered round me: the scene of many a stirring day in the _Dido_. Again to Japan, and further cruises on that beautiful and interesting coast. CHAPTER XC THE OUTLOOK FOR THE NEW YEAR [Sidenote: 1868. Hiogo, Jan. 1.]