Of what, at the same time, in those years, were the great rooms of the
Louvre almost equally, above and below, not the scene, from the moment
they so wrought, stage by stage, upon our perceptions?--literally on
almost all of these, in one way and another; quite in such a manner, I
more and more see, as to have been educative, formative, fertilising, in
a degree which no other "intellectual experience" our youth was to know
could pretend, as a comprehensive, conducive thing, to rival. The sharp
and strange, the quite heart-shaking little prevision had come to me,
for myself, I make out, on the occasion of our very first visit of all,
my brother's and mine, under conduct of the good Jean Nadali,
before-mentioned, trustfully deputed by our parents, in the Rue de la
Paix, on the morrow of our first arrival in Paris (July 1855) and while
they were otherwise concerned. I hang again, appalled but uplifted, on
brave Nadali's arm--his professional acquaintance with the splendours
about us added for me on the spot to the charm of his "European"
character: I cling to him while I gape at Gericault's Radeau de la
Meduse, _the_ sensation, for splendour and terror of interest, of that
juncture to me, and ever afterwards to be associated, along with two or
three other more or less contemporary products, Guerin's Burial of
Atala, Prudhon's Cupid and Psyche, David's helmetted Romanisms, Madame
Vigee-Lebrun's "ravishing" portrait of herself and her little girl, with
how can I say what foretaste (as determined by that instant as if the
hour had struck from a clock) of all the fun, confusedly speaking, that
one was going to have, and the kind of life, always of the queer
so-called inward sort, tremendously "sporting" in its way--though that
description didn't then wait upon it, that one was going to lead. It
came of itself, this almost awful apprehension in all the presences,
under our courier's protection and in my brother's company--it came just
there and so; there was alarm in it somehow as well as bliss. The bliss
in fact I think scarce disengaged itself at all, but only the sense of
a freedom of contact and appreciation really too big for one, and
leaving such a mark on the very place, the pictures, the frames
themselves, the figures within them, the particular parts and features
of each, the look of the rich light, the smell of the massively enclosed
air, that I have never since renewed the old exposure without renewing
again the old emotion and taking up the small scared consciousness.
_That_, with so many of the conditions repeated, is the charm--to feel
afresh the beginning of so much that was to be. The beginning in short
was with Gericault and David, but it went on and on and slowly spread;
so that one's stretched, one's even strained, perceptions, one's
discoveries and extensions piece by piece, come back, on the great
premises, almost as so many explorations of the house of life, so many
circlings and hoverings round the image of the world. I have dim
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