Skye, Island of (Scotland) -- Description and travel
The Quirang is one of the wonderful sights of Skye, and if you once
visit it you will believe ever afterwards the misty and spectral
Ossian to be authentic. The Quirang is a nightmare of nature; it
resembles one of Nat Lee's mad tragedies; it might be the scene of a
Walpurgis night; on it might be held a Norway witch's Sabbath.
Architecture is frozen music, it is said; the Quirang is frozen
terror and superstition. 'Tis a huge spire or cathedral of rock some
thousand feet in height, with rocky spires or needles sticking out of
it. Macbeth's weird sisters stand on the blasted heath, and Quirang
stands in a region as wild as itself. The country around is strange
and abnormal, rising into rocky ridges here, like the spine of some
huge animal, sinking into hollows there, with pools in the
hollows--glimmering almost always through drifts of misty rain. On a
clear day, with a bright sun above, the ascent of Quirang may be
pleasant enough; but a clear day you seldom find, for on spectral
precipices and sharp-pointed rocky needles, the weeping clouds of the
Atlantic have made their chosen home. When you ascend, with every
ledge and block slippery, every runnel a torrent, the wind taking
liberties with your cap and making your plaid stream like a meteor to
the troubled air, white tormented mists boiling up from black chasms
and caldrons, rain making disastrous twilight of noon-day,--horror
shoots through your pulses, your brain swims on the giddy pathway,
and the thought of your room in the vapoury under world rushes across
the soul like the fallen Adam's remembrance of his paradise. Then
you learn, if you never learned before, that nature is not always
gracious; that not always does she out-stretch herself in low-lying
bounteous lands, over which sober sunsets redden and heavy-uddered
cattle low; but that she has fierce hysterical moods in which she
congeals into granite precipice and peak, and draws around herself
and her companions the winds that moan and bluster, veils of livid
rains. If you are an Englishman you will habitually know her in her
gracious, if a Skye man in her fiercer, moods.
[Sidenote: The Saxon and the Celt.]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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