Skye, Island of (Scotland) -- Description and travel
In the stories which are told round the island peat-fires it is
abundantly apparent that the Celt has not yet subdued nature. In
these stories you can detect a curious subtle hostility between man
and his environments; a fear of them, a want of absolute trust in
them. In these stories and songs man is not at home in the world.
Nature is too strong for him; she rebukes and crushes him. The
Elements, however calm and beautiful they may appear for the moment,
are malign and deceitful at heart, and merely bide their time. They
are like the paw of the cat--soft and velvety, but with concealed
talons that scratch when least expected. And this curious relation
between man and nature grows out of the climatic conditions and the
forms of Hebridean life. In his usual avocations the Islesman rubs
clothes with death as he would with an acquaintance. Gathering wild
fowl, he hangs, like a spider on its thread, over a precipice on
which the sea is beating a hundred feet beneath. In his crazy boat
he adventures into whirlpool and foam. He is among the hills when
the snow comes down making everything unfamiliar, and stifling the
strayed wanderer. Thus death is ever near him, and that
consciousness turns everything to omen. The mist creeping along the
hill-side by moonlight is an apparition. In the roar of the
waterfall, or the murmur of the swollen ford, he hears the water
spirit calling out for the man for whom it has waited so long. He
sees death-candles burning on the sea, marking the place at which a
boat will be upset by some sudden squall. He hears spectral hammers
clinking in an outhouse, and he knows that ghostly artificers are
preparing a coffin there. Ghostly fingers tap at his window, ghostly
feet are about his door; at midnight his furniture cries out as if it
had seen a sight and could not restrain itself. Even his dreams are
prophetic, and point ghastly issues for himself or for others. And
just as there are poets who are more open to beauty than other men,
and whose duty and delight it is to set forth that beauty anew; so in
the Hebrides there are seers who bear the same relation to the other
world that the poet bears to beauty, who are cognisant of its
secrets, and who make those secrets known. The seer does not inherit
his power. It comes upon him at haphazard, as genius or as personal
beauty might come. He is a lonely man amongst his fellows;
apparitions cross his path at noon-day; he never knows into what a
ghastly something the commonest object may transform itself--the
table he sits at may suddenly become the resting-place of a coffin;
and the man who laughs in his cups with him may, in the twinkling of
an eye, wear a death-shroud up to his throat. He hears river voices
prophesying death, and shadowy and silent funeral processions are
continually defiling before him. When the seer beholds a vision his
companions know it; for "the inner part of his eyelids turn so far
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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