Skye, Island of (Scotland) -- Description and travel
Even now a troop is busy; how their shrill voices go the
while! [Sidenote: Old Effie.] Old Effie I see is out to-day, quite a
picturesque object, with her white cap and red shawl. With a tin can
in one hand, an old reaping-hook in the other, she goes poking among
the tangle. Let us see what sport she has had. She turns round at
our salutation--very old, old almost as the worn rocks around. She
might have been the wife of Wordsworth's "Leech-gatherer." Her can
is sprawling with brown crabs; and, opening her apron, she exhibits a
large black and blue lobster--a fellow such as she alone can capture.
A queer woman is Effie, and an awesome. She is familiar with ghosts
and apparitions. She can relate legends that have power over the
superstitious blood, and with little coaxing will sing those wild
Gaelic songs of hers--of dead lights on the sea, of fishing-boats
going down in squalls, of unburied bodies tossing day and night upon
the gray peaks of the waves, and of girls that pray God to lay them
by the sides of their drowned lovers, although for them should never
rise mass nor chant, and although their flesh should be torn asunder
by the wild fishes of the sea.
Rain is my enemy here; and at this writing I am suffering siege. For
three days this rickety dwelling has stood assault of wind and rain.
Yesterday a blast breached the door, and the tenement fluttered for a
moment like an umbrella caught in a gust. All seemed lost; but the
door was got closed again, heavily barred across, and the enemy
foiled. An entrance, however, had been effected, and that portion of
the attacking column which I had imprisoned by my dexterous
manœuvre, maddened itself into whirlwind, rushed up the chimney,
scattering my turf-fire as it went, and so escaped. Since that time
the windy columns have retired to the gorges of the hills, where I
can hear them howl at intervals; and the only thing I am exposed to
is the musketry of the rain. How viciously the small shot peppers
the walls! Here must I wait till the cloudy armament breaks up.
One's own mind is a dull companion in such circumstances. A Sheridan
himself--wont with his wit to brighten the feast, whose mind is a
phosphorescent sea, dark in its rest, but when touched giving out a
flash of splendour for response--if cooped up here would be dull as a
Lincolnshire fen at midnight, unenlivened by a single
Jack-o'-Lantern. Books are the only refuge on a rainy day; but in
Skye bothies books are rare. [Sidenote: The "Monthly Review."] To
me, however, the gods have proved kind--for in my sore need I found
on a shelf here two volumes of the old _Monthly Review_, and I have
sauntered through those dingy literary catacombs with considerable
satisfaction. What a strange set of old fogies the writers are! To
read them is like conversing with the antediluvians. Their opinions
have fallen into disuse long ago, and resemble to-day the rusty
armour and gimcracks of an old curiosity shop. Mr Henry Rogers has
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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