Skye, Island of (Scotland) -- Description and travel
death depending on the cry and flutter of a desert bird, or the flash
of a sunbeam along the stretches of the moor. In the middle of that
melancholy waste stands the farm-house of Lochgoin, intimately
connected with the history of the Covenanters. To this dwelling came
Cameron and Peden and found shelter; here lies the notched sword of
Captain John Paton, and the drum which was beaten at Drumclog by the
hill-folk, and the banner that floated above their heads that day.
And here, too, was written the "Scots Worthies," a book considerered
by the austerer portion of the Scottish peasantry as next in
sacredness to the Bible. And it has other charms this desolate
country: over there by Mearns, Christopher North spent his glorious
boyhood; in this region, too, Pollok was born, and fed his gloomy
spirit on congenial scenes. Approaching the city, and immediately to
the left, are the Cathkin Braes: and close by the village of
Cathcart, past which the stream runs murmuring in its rocky bed, is
the hill on which Mary stood and saw Moray shiver her army like a
potsherd. [Sidenote: The estuary of the Clyde.] Below Glasgow, and
westward, stretches the great valley of the Clyde. On the left is
the ancient burgh of Renfrew; farther back Paisley and Johnston,
covered with smoke; above all, Gleniffer Braes, greenly fair in
sunlight; afar Neilston Pad, raising its flat summit to the sky, like
a table spread for a feast of giants. On the right are the
Kilpatrick Hills, terminating in the abrupt peak of Dumbuck; and
beyond, the rock of Dumbarton, the ancient fortress, the rock of
Ossian's song. It rises before you out of another world and state of
things, with years of lamentation and battle wailing around it like
sea-mews. By this time the river has widened to an estuary.
Port-Glasgow, with its deserted piers, and Greenock, populous with
ships, lie on the left. Mid-channel, Rosneath is gloomy with its
woods; on the farther shore Helensburgh glitters like a silver
thread; in front, a battlement of hills. You pass the point of
Gourock, and are in the Highlands. From the opposite coast Loch Long
stretches up into yon dark world of mountains. Yonder is Holy Loch,
smallest and loveliest of them all. A league of sea is glittering
like frosted silver between you and Dunoon. The mighty city, twenty
miles away, loud with traffic, dingy with smoke, is the working
Glasgow; here, nestling at the foot of mountains, stretching along
the sunny crescents of bays, clothing beaked promontories with
romantic villas, is another Glasgow keeping holiday the whole summer
long. These villages are the pure wheat; the great city, with its
strife and toil, its harass and heart-break--the chaff and husks from
which it is winnowed. The city is the soil, this region the bright
consummate flower. The merchant leaves behind him in the roar and
vapour his manifold vexations, and appears here with his best face
and happiest smile. Here no bills intrude, the fluctuations of stock
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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