Skye, Island of (Scotland) -- Description and travel
by a channel dug by the hand of man long ago, but like a work of
nature's now, so covered with furze as it is. Look down through the
clear amber of the current, and you see the "long green gleet of the
slippery stones" in which the silver-bellied eel delights. Woe
betide the luckless village urchin that dares to wade therein. There
is a sudden splash and roar. When he gets out, he is laid with
shrill objurgations across the broad maternal knee, and fright and
wet clothes are avenged by sound whacks from the broad maternal hand.
Leaving the village, we proceed onward. The banks come closer, the
stream is shallower, and whirls in eddy and circle over a rocky bed.
There is a woodland loneliness about the river which is aided by the
solitary angler standing up to his middle in the water, and waiting
patiently for the bite that never comes, or by the water-ousel
flitting from stone to stone. [Sidenote: Kenmuir Bank.] In a quarter
of an hour we reach Kenmuir Bank, which rises some seventy feet or
so, filled with trees, their trunks rising bare for a space, and then
spreading out with branch and foliage into a matted shade, permitting
the passage only of a few flakes of sunlight at noon, resembling, in
the green twilight, a flock of visionary butterflies alighted and
asleep. Within, the wood is jungle; you wade to the knees in
brushwood and bracken. The trunks are clothed with ivy, and snakes
of ivy creep from tree to tree, some green with life, some tarnished
with decay. At the end of the Bank there is a clear well, in which,
your face meeting its shadow, you may quench your thirst. Seated
here, you have the full feeling of solitude. An angler wades out
into mid-channel--a bird darts out of a thicket, and slides away on
noiseless wing--the shallow wash and murmur of the Clyde flows
through a silence as deep as that of an American wilderness--and yet,
by to-morrow, the water which mirrors as it passes the beauty of the
lucken-gowan hanging asleep, will have received the pollutions of a
hundred sewers, and be bobbing up and down among the crowds of
vessels at the Broomielaw. Returning homeward by the top of Kenmuir
Bank, we gaze westward. Out of a world of smoke the stalk of St
Rollox rises like a banner-staff, its vapoury streamer floating on
the wind; and afar, through the gap between the Campsie and
Kilpatrick hills, Benlomond himself, with a streak of snow upon his
shoulder. Could one but linger here for a couple of hours, one would
of a verity behold a sight--the sun setting in yonder lurid,
smoke-ocean. The wreaths of vapour which seem so common-place and
vulgar now, so suggestive of trade and swollen purses and rude
manners, would then become a glory such as never shepherd beheld at
sunrise on his pastoral hills. Beneath a roof of scarlet flame, one
would see the rolling edges of the smoke change into a brassy
brightness, as with intense heat; the dense mass and volume of it
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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