A Text-Book of Horseshoeing, for Horseshoers and VeterinariansLungwitz, A. (Anton)
Science
A Text-Book of Horseshoeing, for Horseshoers and Veterinarians
Lungwitz, A. (Anton)
Horseshoeing
Nails, which at a depth of five-eighths of an inch are still going
soft, or which bend and give a dull sound, or cause pain, should be
immediately withdrawn.
According to the size of the horse and his hoofs the nails should be
driven from five-eighths to an inch and five-eighths high, and as
_even_ as possible. As soon as a nail is driven its point should be
=immediately= bent down towards the shoe in order to prevent injuries.
The heads of all the nails should then be gone over with a hammer and
driven down solidly into the nail-holes, the hoof being meanwhile
supported in the left hand. Pincers are then held under the bent nails
and they are more sharply bent by _light_ blows upon the nail-heads.
The points of the nails are now nipped off near the hoof, the horn
which has been thrown out just below the clinches by bending the nails
down is removed with rasp or gouge, and the ends of the nails bent down
still more, but not quite flush with the wall. This operation is called
“clinching.” A clinching-block or a pair of ordinary blacksmith’s
pincers is then placed under the end of the nail, now called a clinch,
and by light blows (in doing this the nail must not bend within the
wall) upon the head the clinch is turned closer to the surface of the
wall; finally, with the front edge of the nail-hammer the clinch is
hammered down flush with the wall. On the inner half of the wall the
clinches should not be felt on stroking the wall with the fingers. The
small amount of horn that projects beyond the shoe around the toe may
be carefully rasped away in the direction in which the wall slants, but
_never higher than the clinches_; finally, the sharp lower edge of the
wall is to be removed by carrying the corner of the rasp around between
the shoe and the horn.
A clinch is sufficiently long when it equals the width of the nail at
that point.
It is of advantage to use a shoeing-bock or foot-stool in clinching
the nails on the front hoofs. The hind hoofs may be clinched in the
hands. Then the horse should be led out and again moved in order to
see whether or not the new shoeing has actually accomplished what was
desired. Finally, the entire hoof should be given a thin layer of
hoof-salve.
K. Horseshoes More or Less Deficient in the Desirable Qualities
Described on Pages 107-116.
Machine Shoes.
1. _Machine Shoes of Wrought Iron._—They are half-finished and
finished. Though machine shoes with few exceptions show no distinction
between front and hind, or left and right, with correct punching for
these different feet, but usually present one form in different sizes,
yet, unfortunately, they are in high favor with horseshoers, because
they may be used for both summer and winter and for bar-shoes.
[Illustration: FIG. 133.
A machine-made (drop-forged) front shoe, ground-surface.]
[Illustration: FIG. 134. A machine-made toe-weight front shoe for a
harness horse, showing ground-surface. Punching good.]
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