A Thousand Miles in the Rob Roy Canoe on Rivers and Lakes of EuropeMacGregor, John
History
A Thousand Miles in the Rob Roy Canoe on Rivers and Lakes of Europe
MacGregor, John
Canoes and canoeing -- Europe; Europe -- Description and travel; History -- Miscellanea; MacGregor, John, 1825-1892 -- Travel -- Europe
Two railway porters, with much good-humoured laughing, carried the Rob
Roy from the station to the river's edge, and again we paddled cheerily
along, and on a new river, too, with scenery and character quite
different from that of the Moselle.
The Meurthe winds through rich plains of soft earth, with few rocks and
little gravel. But then in its shallows it has long thick mossy weeds,
all under the surface. These were found to be rather troublesome,
because they got entangled with my paddle, and since they could not be
seen beforehand the best channel was not discernible, as where rocks or
gravel give those various forms of ripples which the captain of a canoe
soon gets to know as if they were a chart telling the number of inches
of depth. Moreover, when you get grounded among these long weeds, all
pointed down stream, it is very difficult to "back out," for it is like
combing hair against the grain.
The larger rivers in France are all thoroughly fished. In every nook you
find a fisherman. They are just as numerous here as in Germany they are
rare. And yet one would think that fishing is surely more adapted to the
contemplative German than to the vivacious French. Yet, here they are
by hundreds, both men and women, and every day, each staring intently on
a tiny float, or at the grasshopper bait, and quite satisfied if now and
then he can pull up a gudgeon the size of your thumb.
[Illustration: "French Fishers."]
Generally, these people are alone, and when they asked me at hotels if I
did not feel lonely in the canoe, the answer was, "Look at your
fishermen, for hours by choice alone. They have something to occupy
attention every moment, and so have I." Sometimes, however, there is a
whole party in one clumsy boat.
The _pater familias_ sits content, and recks not if all his time is
spent in baiting his line and lighting his pipe. The lazy "hopeful" lies
at full length on the grass, while a younger brother strains every nerve
to hook a knowing fish that is laughing at him under water, and winking
its pale eye to see the fisher just toppling over. Mademoiselle chatters
whether there are bites or not, and another, the fair cousin, has got on
shore, where she can bait her hook and set her cap and simper to the
bold admirer by her side.
Not one of these that I have spoken to had ever seen an artificial fly.
Then besides, we have the fishers with nets. These are generally three
men in a boat, with its stem and its stern both cocked up, and the whole
affair looking as if it must upset or sink. Such boats were painted by
Raphael in the great Cartoons, where all of us must have observed how
small the boat is compared with the men it carries.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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