A Thousand Miles in the Rob Roy Canoe on Rivers and Lakes of EuropeMacGregor, John
History
A Thousand Miles in the Rob Roy Canoe on Rivers and Lakes of Europe
MacGregor, John
Canoes and canoeing -- Europe; Europe -- Description and travel; History -- Miscellanea; MacGregor, John, 1825-1892 -- Travel -- Europe
In the afternoon the relics of the monk were borne through the streets
by a procession of some thousand women and a few men. These ladies, some
hundreds of whom were dressed in white muslin, and in two single ranks,
chanted as they slowly marched, and all the bystanders took off their
hats, but I really could not see what adoration was due to the
mouldering bones of a withered friar, so my excellent straw hat was kept
on my head.
But the French, who live in public, must have a public religion, a
gregarious worship, with demonstrative action and colours and sounds.
Deep devotion, silent in its depth, is for the north and not for this
radiant sun, though you will find that quiet worship again in lower
latitudes where the very heat precludes activity.
Some twenty years ago, one of the ablest men of the University of
Cambridge read a paper on the influence which the insular position and
the climate of Britain has upon our national character, and it appeared
to be proved clearly that this influence pervades every feature of our
life.
In a third-rate French town like Nancy, nearly all the pleasant
_agrements_ depend on the climate, and would be sadly curtailed by rain
or snow. So, again, when a Frenchman visits England and gets laughed at
for mistakes in our difficult language, and has to eat only two dishes
for dinner, and drinks bad coffee, and has no evening lounge in the open
air, and is then told to look at our domestic life, and finds he cannot
get an entrance there (for how very few French do enter there), his
miseries are directly caused by our climate, and no wonder his
impression of Albion is that we are all fog and cotton and smoke, and
everything _triste_.
From Nancy we sent the canoe by rail to meet me on the river Marne, and
while the slow luggage-train lumbered along I took the opportunity of
visiting the celebrated Camp of Châlons, the Aldershot of France. An
omnibus takes you from the railway station, and you soon enter a long
straggling street of very little houses, built badly, and looking as if
one and all could be pushed down by your hand. These are not the
military quarters, but the self-grown parasite sutlers' town, which
springs up near every camp. Here is "Place Solferino," and there "Rue
Malakhoff," where the sign of the inn is a Chinaman having his pigtail
lopped off by a Français. The camp is in the middle of a very large
plain, with plenty of dust and white earth, which "glared" on my eyes
intensely, this being the hottest day I have experienced during the
vacation. But there are trees for shade, and a good deal of grass on
these extensive downs where great armies can manoeuvre and march past
the Emperor as he sits enthroned under a bower on that hill-crest
overlooking all.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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