A Thousand Miles in the Rob Roy Canoe on Rivers and Lakes of EuropeMacGregor, John
History
A Thousand Miles in the Rob Roy Canoe on Rivers and Lakes of Europe
MacGregor, John
Canoes and canoeing -- Europe; Europe -- Description and travel; History -- Miscellanea; MacGregor, John, 1825-1892 -- Travel -- Europe
This town of Meaux has a bridge with houses on it, and great mill-wheels
filling up the arches as they used to do in old London-bridge. Pleasant
gardens front the river, and cafés glitter there at night. These are not
luxuries but positive necessaries of life for the Frenchman, and it is
their absence abroad which--we believe--is one chief cause of his being
so bad a colonist, for the Frenchman has only the expression "with me"
for "home," and no word for "wife" but "woman."
The cathedral of Meaux is grand and old, and see how they masquerade
the service in it! Look at the gaunt "Suisse," with his cocked-hat kept
on in church, with his sword and spear. The twenty priests and twelve
red-surpliced boys intone to about as many hearers. A monk escorted
through the church makes believe to sprinkle holy water on all sides
from that dirty plasterer's brush, and then two boys carry on their
shoulders a huge round loaf, the "pain benit," which, after fifty
bowings, is blessed, and escorted back to be cut up, and is then given
in morsels to the congregation. These endless ceremonies are the meshes
of the net of Popery, and they are well woven to catch many Frenchmen,
who must have action, show, the visible tangible outside, whatever may
be meant by it.
This service sets one a-thinking. Some form there must be in worship.
One may suppose, indeed, that perfect spirit can adore God without
attitude, or even any sequence or change. Yet in the Bible we hear of
Seraphs veiling their bodies with their wings, and of elders prostrate
at certain times, and saints that have a litany even in heaven. Mortals
must have some form of adoration, but there is the question, How much?
and on this great point how many wise and foolish men have written books
without end, or scarcely any effect!
The riverside was a good place for a quiet Sunday walk. Here a flock of
300 sheep had come to drink, and nibble at the flowers hanging over the
water, and the simple-hearted shepherd stood looking on while his dogs
rushed backward and forward, yearning for some sheep to do wrong, that
their dog service might be required to prevent or to punish naughty
conduct. This "Berger" inquires whether England is near Africa, and how
large our legs of mutton are, and if we have sheep-dogs, and are there
any rivers in our island on the sea. Meanwhile at the hotel the marriage
party kept on "breakfasting," even until four o'clock, and non-melodious
songs were sung. The French, as a people, do not excel in vocal music,
either in tone or in harmony, but then they are precise in time.
Afloat again next morning, and quite refreshed, we prepared for a long
day's work. The stream was now clear, and the waving tresses of dark
green weeds gracefully curved under water, while islands amid deep shady
bays varied the landscape above.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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