A Thousand Miles in the Rob Roy Canoe on Rivers and Lakes of EuropeMacGregor, John
History
A Thousand Miles in the Rob Roy Canoe on Rivers and Lakes of Europe
MacGregor, John
Canoes and canoeing -- Europe; Europe -- Description and travel; History -- Miscellanea; MacGregor, John, 1825-1892 -- Travel -- Europe
Strange that this quick curiosity of French boys does not ripen more of
them into travellers, but it soon gets expended in trifling details of a
narrow circle, while the sober, sedate, nay, the _triste_, Anglian is
found scurrying over the world with a carpet-bag, and pushing his way in
foreign crowds without one word of their language, and all the while as
merry as a lark. Among the odd modes of locomotion adopted by
Englishmen, we have already mentioned that of the gentleman travelling
in Germany with a four-in-hand and two spare horses. We met another
Briton who had made a tour in a road locomotive which he bought for
700_l._, and sold again at the same price. One more John Bull, who
regarded the canoe as a "queer conveyance," went himself abroad on a
velocipede. None of these, however, could cross seas, lakes, and rivers
like the canoe, which might be taken wherever a man could walk or a
plank could swim.
It seemed contrary to nature that, after thus nearing pretty Paris,
one's back was now to be turned upon it for hours in order to have a
wide, vague, purposeless voyage into country parts. But the river
willed it so; for here a great curve began and led off to the left,
while the traffic of the Marne went straight through a canal to the
right,--through a canal, and therefore I would not follow it there.
The river got less and less in volume; its water was used for the canal,
and it could scarcely trickle, with its maimed strength, through a
spacious sweep of real country life. Here we often got grounded, got
entangled in long mossy weeds, got fastened in overhanging trees, and,
in fact, suffered all the evils which the smallest brook had ever
entailed, though this was a mighty river.
The bend was more and more inexplicable, as it turned more round and
round, till my face was full in the sunlight at noon, and I saw that the
course was now due south.
Rustics were there to look at me, and wondering herdsmen too, as if the
boat was in mid Germany, instead of being close to Paris. Evidently
boating men in that quarter never came here by the river, and the Rob
Roy was a _rara avis_ floating on a stream unused.
But the circle was rounded at last, as all circles are, however large
they be; and we got back to the common route, to civilization, fishing
men and fishing women, and on the broad Marne once more. So here I
stopped a bit for a ponder.
And now we unmoor for the last time, and enter the Rob Roy for its final
trip--the last few miles of the Marne, and of more than a thousand miles
rowed and sailed since we started from England. I will not disguise my
feeling of sadness then, and I wished that Paris was still another day
distant.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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