A Thousand Miles in the Rob Roy Canoe on Rivers and Lakes of EuropeMacGregor, John
History
A Thousand Miles in the Rob Roy Canoe on Rivers and Lakes of Europe
MacGregor, John
Canoes and canoeing -- Europe; Europe -- Description and travel; History -- Miscellanea; MacGregor, John, 1825-1892 -- Travel -- Europe
In a pensive mood, therefore, I landed at a garden, and reclined on a
warm mossy bank to have a rest and a day-dream, but very soon the loud
booming of artillery aroused the hill echoes, and then sharp rattling of
infantry firing. The heights around were crested with fringes of
blue-coated soldiers and glistening bayonets, amid the soft round,
cotton-like volumes of smoke from the great guns spurting out fire long
before the sound comes. It was a review of troops and a sham attack on a
fort surmounting the hill, near the battlefield of long years ago at
Ulm. If they fought in heat and fury, let them now rest in peace.
Come back, my thoughts, to the river at my feet.
I had been with this river from its infancy, nay, even from its birth in
the Schwartzwald. I had followed it right and left, as it seemed to
toddle in zigzag turnings like a child; and I had wound with it hither
and thither as it roamed away further like free boyhood. Then it grew in
size by feeding on the oozy plain, and was still my companion when it
got the strength of youth, dashing over the rocks, and bounding through
the forests; and I had come at last to feel its powerful stream stronger
than my strength, and compelling my respect. And now, at Ulm, I found it
a noble river, steady and swift, as if in the flower of age; but its
romance was gone. It had boats on it, and navigation, and bridges, and
railways, like other great waters; and so I would let it go on alone,
tumbling, rushing, swelling, till its broad bosom bears whole fleets at
Ofen, and at length as a great water giant it leaps down headlong into
the Black Sea.
Having seen Ulm in a former tour, I was in no mood to "go over" the
sights again, nor need they be related here, for it is only river travel
and lake sailing that we are concerned with; while reference may be made
to the Guide-books if you wish to hear this sort of thing: "Ulm, lat.
97°, an old Cathedral (_a_) town, on two (§) hills (see Appx.). Pop.
9763; situated [+][+] on the Danube." At that I stop, and
look into the water once more.
The river is discoloured here,--what is called in Scotland "drumly;" and
this seems partly owing to the tributary _Iller_, which rises in the
Tyrol, and falls into the Danube, a little way above the town. The Iller
has a peculiar air of wild, forlorn bleakness, with its wide channel
half occupied by cold white gravel, and its banks scored and torn, with
weird, broken roots, gnarled trees, bleakness and fallen, all lying
dishevelled; surely in flood times, and of dark wintry nights, a very
deluge boils and seethes along there.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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