A Thousand Miles in the Rob Roy Canoe on Rivers and Lakes of EuropeMacGregor, John
History
A Thousand Miles in the Rob Roy Canoe on Rivers and Lakes of Europe
MacGregor, John
Canoes and canoeing -- Europe; Europe -- Description and travel; History -- Miscellanea; MacGregor, John, 1825-1892 -- Travel -- Europe
Then, at last, there are the barges on the Danube, and very rudimental
they are; huge in size, with flat bottoms, and bows and stems cocked up,
and a roofed house in the middle of their sprawling length. The German
boys must have these models before them when they make the Noah's Arks
for English nurseries; and Murray well says of these barges, they are
"nothing better than wooden sheds floating in flat trays."
In 1839 a steamer was tried here, but it got on a bank, and the effort
was abandoned; so you have to go on to Donauwerth before this mode of
travelling is reached, but from thence you can steam down to the Black
Sea, and the passage boats below Vienna are very fast and well
appointed.
Rafts there are at Ulm, but we suppose the timber for them comes by the
Iller, for I did not notice any logs descending the upper part of the
Danube.
Again, there are the public washhouses in the river, each of them a
large floating establishment, with overhanging eaves, under which you
can see, say, fifty women all in a row, half kneeling or leaning over
the low bulwarks, and all slapping your best shirts mercilessly.
I made straight over to these ladies, and asked how the Rob Roy could
get up so steep a bank, and how far it was to the railway; and so their
senior matron kindly got a man and a hand-cart for the boat, and, as the
company of women heard it was from England, they all talked louder and
more together, and pounded and smacked the unfortunate linen with
additional emphasis.
The bustle at the railway-station was only half about the canoe; the
other half was for the King of Wurtemburg, who was getting into his
special train to go to his palace at Fredrickshafen.
Behold me, then, fresh from Gegglingen and snags, in the immediate
presence of Royalty! But this King was not at all kingly, though
decidedly stiff. He is, however, rather amusing sometimes; as when by
his order, issued lately, he compels sentries to salute even empty Royal
carriages.
I got a newspaper here, and had twelve days to overtake of the world's
doings while we had roamed in hill, forest, and waves. Yet I had been
always asked there to "give the news," and chiefly on two points,--the
Great Eastern, with its electric cable, and the catastrophe on the
Matterhorn glacier, the two being at times vaguely associated, as if
the breaking of the cable in the one had something to do with the loss
of mountaineers in the other.
So, while I read, the train bore us southwards to Fredrickshafen, the
canoe being charged as baggage three shillings, and patiently submitting
to have a numbered label pasted on its pretty brown face.
This lively port, on the north side of the Lake of Constance, has a
charming view in front of it well worth stopping to enjoy. It is not
fair to treat it as only a half-hour's town, to be seen while you are
waiting for the lake steamer to take you across to Switzerland.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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