A Thousand Miles in the Rob Roy Canoe on Rivers and Lakes of EuropeMacGregor, John
History
A Thousand Miles in the Rob Roy Canoe on Rivers and Lakes of Europe
MacGregor, John
Canoes and canoeing -- Europe; Europe -- Description and travel; History -- Miscellanea; MacGregor, John, 1825-1892 -- Travel -- Europe
A gradual current towards the end of the lake entices you under the
bridge where the river starts again on its course, at first gently
enough, and as if it never could get fierce and hoarse-voiced when it
has taken you miles away into the woods and can deal with you all alone.
The map showed the Reuss flowing into the Aar, but I could learn nothing
more about either of these rivers, except that an intelligent man said,
"The Reuss is a mere torrent," while another recounted how a man some
years ago went on the Aar in a boat, and was taken up by the police and
punished for thus perilling his life.
Deducting from these statements the usual 50 per cent. for exaggeration,
everything appeared satisfactory, so I yielded my boat to the current,
and, at parting, waved my yellow paddle to certain fair friends who had
honoured me with their countenance, and who were now assembled on the
bridge. After this a few judicious strokes took the Rob Roy through the
town and past the pleasant environs, and we were now again upon running
water.
The current, after a quiet beginning, soon put on a sort of "business
air," as if it did not mean to dally, and rapidly got into quick time,
threading a devious course among the woods, hayfields, and vineyards,
and it seemed not to murmur (as streams always do), but to sing with
buoyant exhilaration in the fresh brightness of the morn.
It certainly was a change, from the sluggish feeling of dead water in
the lakes to the lively tremulous thrilling of a rapid river like the
Reuss, which, in many places, is as wide as the Rhine at Schaffhausen.
It is a wild stream, too fast for navigation, and therefore the villages
are not built on the banks, and there are no boats, and the lonely,
pathless, forest-covered banks are sometimes bleak enough when seen from
the water.
For some miles it was easy travelling, the water being seldom less than
two feet deep, and with rocks readily visible by the eddy bubbling about
them, because they were sharp and jagged. It is the long smooth and
round-topped rock which is most treacherous in a fast river, for the
spray which the current throws round such a rock is often not different
from an ordinary wave.
Now and then the stream was so swift that I was afraid of losing my
straw hat, simply from the breeze created by great speed--for it was a
day without wind.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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