A Thousand Miles in the Rob Roy Canoe on Rivers and Lakes of EuropeMacGregor, John
History
A Thousand Miles in the Rob Roy Canoe on Rivers and Lakes of Europe
MacGregor, John
Canoes and canoeing -- Europe; Europe -- Description and travel; History -- Miscellanea; MacGregor, John, 1825-1892 -- Travel -- Europe
The sun, now shining exactly up stream, was an exceedingly uncomfortable
addition to the difficulties; for its glancing beams confounded all the
horizon in one general band of light, so that rocks, waves, solid water,
and the most flimsy foam were all the same at a little distance. This,
the sole disadvantage of a cloudless sky, was so much felt in my
homeward route that I sometimes prolonged the morning's work by three or
four hours (with sun behind or on one side), so as to shorten the
evening's _quota_ where it was dead in the eye of the sun. On the
present occasion, when it was of great moment to hit the channel
exactly, I could not see it at all, even with my blue spectacles on.
They seemed to be utterly powerless against such a fiery blaze; and,
what was almost worse, my eyes were thereby so dazzled that on looking
to nearer objects I could scarcely see them either.
This unexpected difficulty was so serious that I thought for a moment of
keeping on in my present course (directed straight across the river), so
as to attain the opposite side, and there to wait for the sun to go
down.
But it was already too late to adopt this plan, for the current had been
swiftly bearing me down stream, and an instant decision must be made.
"Now," thought I, "judging by the number of paddle-strokes, we must
surely be opposite the channel in the middle, and now I must turn to
it."
By a happy hit, the speed and the direction of the canoe were both well
fitted, so that when the current had borne us to the breakers the boat's
bow was just turned exactly down stream, and I entered the channel
whistling for very loneliness, like a boy in the dark.
But it was soon seen to be "all right, Englishman;" so in ten minutes
more the canoe had passed the rapids, and we floated along pleasantly on
that confused "bobbery" of little billows always found below broken
water,--a sort of mob of waves, which for a time seem to be elbowing and
jostling in all directions to find their proper places.
I saw here two fishermen by one of the salmon traps described above, and
at once pulled over to them, to land on a little white bank of sand,
that I might rest, and bale out, and hear the news.
The men asked if I had come down the rapids in that boat. "Yes." "By the
middle channel?" "Yes." They smiled to each other, and then both at once
commenced a most voluble and loud-spoken address in the vilest of
patois. Their eagerness and energy rose to such a pitch that I began to
suppose they were angry; but the upshot of all this eloquence (always
louder when you are seen not to understand one word of it) was this,
"There are other rapids to come. You will get there in half an hour.
They are far worse than what you have passed. Your boat _must_ be
carried round them on land."
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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