A Thousand Miles in the Rob Roy Canoe on Rivers and Lakes of EuropeMacGregor, John
History
A Thousand Miles in the Rob Roy Canoe on Rivers and Lakes of Europe
MacGregor, John
Canoes and canoeing -- Europe; Europe -- Description and travel; History -- Miscellanea; MacGregor, John, 1825-1892 -- Travel -- Europe
Thus by successive riding and ferrying over the deep pools, and walking
and wading in the shallows, by pushing the boat here, and by being
carried upon it there, the lower rapids of Rheinfelden were most
successfully passed without any damage.
It will be seen from the description already given of the rapids at
Bremgarten, and now of these two rapids on the Rhine, that the main
difficulties are only for him who goes there uninformed, and that these
can be avoided by examining them on the spot at the cost of a walk and a
short delay. But the pleasure is so much enhanced by the whole thing
being novel, that, unless for a man who wishes simply to _get past_, it
is better to seek a channel for oneself, even if a much easier one has
been found out by other people.
The town of Rheinfelden was now in view, and I began to wonder how the
English four-oar boat we had traced as far as Lauffenburg could have
managed to descend the rapids just now passed. But I learned afterwards
that the four-oar had come there in a time of flood, when rocks would be
covered, and probably with only such eddies as I have already noticed
higher up the river where it was deep. So they pulled on bravely to
Bâle, where the hotel folks mentioned that when the five moist Britons
arrived their clothes and baggage were all drenched, and the waiter
said, with a malicious grin, that thereby his friend the washerwoman
had earned twenty-seven francs in one night.
On the left bank of the river was a large building with a smooth gravel
shore in front, to which I steered at once. This was the great
salt-water baths of Rheinfelden--a favourite resort for crippled
invalids. The salt rock in the earth beneath impregnates the springs
with such an intensity of brine that eighty per cent. of fresh water has
to be added before the saline mixture can be medicinally employed as a
bath. If you take a glass of the water as it proceeds from the spring,
and put a little salt in it, the salt will not dissolve, the water is
already saturated. A drop of it put on your coat speedily dries up and
leaves a white stain of minute crystals. In fact, this water seemed to
me to be far more saline than even the water of the Dead Sea, which is
in all conscience salt enough, as every one knows who has rubbed it on
his face in that reeking-hot death-stricken valley of Jericho.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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