A thousand miles on an elephant in the Shan StatesHallett, Holt S. (Holt Samuel)
History
A thousand miles on an elephant in the Shan States
Hallett, Holt S. (Holt Samuel)
Laos -- Description and travel; Thailand -- Description and travel
Early the next morning our Chow ordered in a fresh supply of rice,
ducks, and fowls, and asked us if we would like to purchase an ox for
food. Of course we gladly consented, and handed him the money. The owner
seemed loath to part with the animal, and we more than fancied that the
prince had taken heavy toll of the money before it passed from his
hands. Anyhow, all of our party had a pleasant addition to our diet for
some days. Most of the meat was subsequently smoked and jerked, and
therefore kept well.
North-east of the city, about five miles distant, Loi Mok—a range of
hills twenty miles long—commences. In this range the Meh Wung takes its
rise, and we are about to skirt these hills until we leave the Meh Low
for Kiang Hai. The range forms the eastern flank of an ancient
lake-basin, which is now drained by the Meh Low. The basin in which
Muang Pa Pow lies was formerly severed from the lake by Loi Pa Tyoo, and
apparently forms part of the previous drainage-area of a former lake on
the Meh Wung.
We had to wait till 1 P.M. for ten fresh coolies and two elephants to
replace the twenty coolies we had brought from Zimmé. When these
arrived, we left the camp and proceeded due north down the valley of the
Meh Low. After passing through the rice-fields of three Shan villages,
great spurs from the ranges on either side began to close in; and at the
303d mile we entered the forest, and soon afterwards crossed a
flat-topped spur about 70 feet high which proceeded from Loi Mok.
A mile farther we crossed a bend of the Meh Low where the stream was 80
feet wide, 6 feet deep, and had 1 foot of water, and entered the gorge
where the river had broken through the hills. Here we met a large
company of Kiang Tung Lawas returning from fishing, and carrying
fishing-nets which were weighted at the bottom with chains. The women,
young and old, were bare to the waist, and the men were dressed, like
our Zimmé Shan followers, in garments of cotton dyed with indigo.
There could be no mistaking this race for the Bau Lawa: like the La-hu,
whom I met in Kiang Hai, they are akin in language to the Lolo tribes of
the Jung race in Yunnan. This is evidenced by comparing the Lolo
vocabularies given by Mr Bourne in the report of his journey in
South-western China (Blue-book, China, No. 1 of 1888) with the
vocabularies given by me in the account of my exploration.
For the next three miles we were amongst the hills. Great spurs covered
with teak and other valuable trees sloped up from the river, in whose
bed shales and flagstones cropped up. The grass and scrub-jungle on some
of the spurs was on fire, and my elephant, from fear, was playing a
scale sounding like one played on a child’s tin trumpet, and by no means
resembling the ordinary roar of the beast. After crossing two bends of
the river, we reached the Kiang Tung Lawa village of Ban Ta Kau, which
is situated beyond the gorge, and halted for the night.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
Reviews
Reviews
No reviews yet
Be the first to share your thoughts on this work.
Elsewhere in the archive
Join the Discussion
Join the discussion
Sign in to leave a comment or review.
Sign InorCreate an account