A thousand miles on an elephant in the Shan StatesHallett, Holt S. (Holt Samuel)
History
A thousand miles on an elephant in the Shan States
Hallett, Holt S. (Holt Samuel)
Laos -- Description and travel; Thailand -- Description and travel
After breakfast we rambled through the city, about half of which was
covered with the remains of fifty-three temples, and of monasteries and
pagodas in their grounds. The seeds of the pipal tree, _Ficus
religiosa_, had been dropped by birds into the interstices of the brick
masonry of the pagodas, and grown into large trees. The roots of the
trees, after shattering the masonry, had prevented it from falling, by
clasping it in their strangling embrace. Splendid bronze images of
Gaudama, generally in a good state of preservation, were scattered about
in every direction, and often half buried in the _débris_ of the fallen
buildings.
[Illustration:
_The great bend of the Meh Kong from Kiang Hsen._
]
The images varied from 6 inches to 7 feet in height, and one known as
Taung-lan-ten is an object of pilgrimage to hundreds of worshippers from
the British and Siamese Shan States. This image, which is about 5 feet
in height, has a legend attached to it, which relates that, when the
great bronze image, now at Ava, known as the Aracan Buddha, was cast, a
fabulous bird, called a galoon, alighted at the site, and fanned the
furnace with its wings; and a _naga_, or dragon, came and blew the fire
up with its breath. As their reward for these meritorious acts, Gaudama
resolved that in their next birth they should be born men, and the
galoon should cast a similar image at Kiang Hsen, and the _naga_ one at
Zimmé. A bamboo and thatched shed had recently been erected over the
image as a temporary shelter, in place of the handsome building, with
pillars and tiled roof, whose remains lay shattered around it.
[Illustration:
_Ruins at Kiang Hsen._
]
What struck me most in the ruins of the temples was the vast number of
the images, the excellence of the plaster which still adhered to the
remains of the massive brick walls and pillars, and the beauty of the
ornamental decorations. The people of the city in olden times must have
been numerous, wealthy, and highly skilled in the arts, to account for
the number of the monasteries, and the workmanship displayed in the
images and buildings.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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