A thousand miles on an elephant in the Shan StatesHallett, Holt S. (Holt Samuel)
History
A thousand miles on an elephant in the Shan States
Hallett, Holt S. (Holt Samuel)
Laos -- Description and travel; Thailand -- Description and travel
On calling to say good-bye, before leaving on March 24th, I asked the
chief about the floods that occasionally happened in the plain to the
south of the Meh Khum. These, he said, were chiefly caused by the
flood-waters of the Meh Kong backing up the water of the Meh Khum. When
the Meh Kong was at its highest, the inundation sometimes rose two and a
half feet over the bank, but the flood never extended north of the Meh
Khum, nor farther inland than Loi Champa and Hong Seu-a Teng (the
fishery where the tiger leapt); and even in this strip of plain there
was a space between the Meh Chun and the Meh Khum, extending to Ban Kan
Hta, which was never overflowed. The land near the mouth of the Meh
Khoke, and for some distance up-stream, was also subject to inundation,
the flow of the water in that river being impeded by waterweeds. Having
finished my calls, and made presents to the chief and officials, and
thanked them for their hospitality, we had the elephants loaded, and a
little after one o’clock in the afternoon left the city.
The first night we halted at Pang Mau Pong, where we had stayed on our
way to Kiang Hsen. I chose a different elephant for the return journey,
much against the wish of the Chow Phya, who was accompanying us; it
being considered _infra dig_. for a gentleman to ride any but a male
beast. But I preferred ease to dignity; my former long-legged elephant
having jolted me with its jerking pace, and the one I chose, although a
female, moving with an exceptionally easy gait. The elephant-driver, on
my noticing that its head was salmon-coloured speckled with darker
spots, assured me that if it had been a male, it would have been
honoured as a white elephant, and presented to the King of Siam. My eyes
had become so inflamed with the constant glare from the white paths, and
from peering at the small figures on the silver rim of the prismatic
compass, that I was obliged to give up night-work as far as possible,
and on my return to England I had to commence wearing spectacles.
[Illustration:
_City enclosure. Sketch of an entrance to Kiang Hsen._
]
The next morning we started at 6 A.M., all feeling much better for our
long halt at Kiang Hsen. The boys were quite rejuvenated, and walked
along briskly under their umbrellas in the fresh morning air, singing
scraps of songs as they went, joking with each other, and with all whom
they met. When tired by a long journey they become jaded, and walk as if
they have tar on their feet. After passing two caravans of laden cattle
conveying the goods of some immigrants from Zimmé, we halted at a
village to purchase fresh vegetables, but could only procure a few
onions. Some of the trees had sprouted after the rain on the 21st, and
everything was looking fresher than before.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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