A thousand miles on an elephant in the Shan StatesHallett, Holt S. (Holt Samuel)
History
A thousand miles on an elephant in the Shan States
Hallett, Holt S. (Holt Samuel)
Laos -- Description and travel; Thailand -- Description and travel
On strolling to the Meh Low, I met two Lolo-Lawa women. One of these
would have been taken for a handsome gipsy in England. An artist would
have been gladdened by the chance of securing such perfection for his
model. The grace of her pose, the faultless symmetry of her person, her
fearless aspect, and perfect self-possession, her pleasant voice, and
the courteous unconstrained manner in which she answered my questions,
bespoke her one of nature’s fairest works. Unluckily I had only the
bumptious village elder Portow with me to catechise the woman; and a
crowd of village boobies soon gathered round, who looked upon the whole
matter as a joke, and jeered at the woman and her friend. She soon
became justly and proudly irate, and refusing to impart further
information, walked disdainfully away. The few words of her vocabulary
that I procured, placed it beyond doubt that she was of the same race of
Lawas whose villages I had passed in the upper portion of the valley of
the Meh Low after leaving Muang Pa Pow. She said that she resided in one
of the five Lawa villages that are situated in the basin of the lower
portion of the Meh Low, which together contained about a hundred houses.
Leaving the village, we traversed a great rice-plain, and entered a
forest of bamboo, in which many teak-trees were scattered. We soon
afterwards crossed the Huay Wai, upon which is situated, three hours’
journey up-stream, the ancient city of Viang Wai (the rattan-cane city).
Some of our men who made a detour through the city, reported that one of
its gateways was still erect, and there were ruins of a temple inside
the walls. The forest we now entered was brightened by yellow, orange,
and red blossoms, and some of the trees were decked with tender spring
foliage. After passing many teak-trees and another village, we crossed
the Meh Low, here 300 feet wide and 12 feet deep, with 2 feet of water,
and halted for the night at the pretty village of Ban Long Ha. We had
travelled 15 miles during the day, and had risen 120 feet since we left
Kiang Hai.
The next morning we were off by half-past five, and after skirting an
old cut-off bend of the Meh Low (the _ow_ in Low is pronounced as in
“cow” in English), crossed the saddles of three small hillocks which
mark the water-parting between the Meh Low and Meh Ing. The aneroid
marked a fall from our camp to the crest of the saddles; but as there
must have been a rise, I have assumed it to be 10 feet. The valleys
between the hillocks are inundated to the depth of 3 feet in the rainy
season.
Continuing through the vast plain, which, as near as I could judge,
averages between 25 and 30 miles in breadth, we halted for the night not
far from Ban Poo-ken, the headquarters of the governor of the district,
which is known as Muang Hpan or Muang Phan.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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