A thousand miles on an elephant in the Shan StatesHallett, Holt S. (Holt Samuel)
History
A thousand miles on an elephant in the Shan States
Hallett, Holt S. (Holt Samuel)
Laos -- Description and travel; Thailand -- Description and travel
Leaving Penyow the next morning about seven o’clock, we crossed the Meh
Ing, which runs near the south gate of the city. The bed of the river at
our ford was saucer-shaped, 80 feet wide, and 5 feet deep in the centre,
and contained 1 foot of water, which was covered with a thick yellow
slime, that emitted an unpleasant odour. After passing a great clump of
rose-bushes, bearing ordinary tea-roses, we entered a plain covered with
elephant grass and bamboo jungle, which is inundated to a depth of 5 or
6 feet in the rains.
Three-quarters of a mile from the city we left the low ground, and
crossing the Meh Hong Sai, the brook of clear water, entered the
rice-plain of Ban Meh Sai. This village is inhabited by people who have
been turned out of other places in the district, under the accusation of
witchcraft.
Near the village we noticed many padouk and pyngado logs, which had been
dragged there for the purpose of building a temple and monastery.
Beyond the fields we entered a bamboo jungle, through which our
elephants had to force their way by breaking down the bamboos and small
trees, and snapping off such branches and twigs as would interfere with
the howdah. It is surprising how docile these great animals are, and how
sagaciously they obey the orders given them by their drivers. We halted
for breakfast at a house that had been built for us in the pretty
village of Meh Hong Khum, which is situated on a stream of the same
name.
After breakfast, we visited the temple and monastery, where we found the
priests busy making rockets for the approaching eclipse, and then
continued through the forest to the village of Ban So. Thence proceeding
through a slightly rolling country, where several small streams take
their rise, we camped for the night under the shade of a great kanyin
tree, near the Meh Na Poi, which enters the Meh Ing. We had risen 350
feet in 12 miles since leaving Penyow.
The kanyin (or oil-tree), under which we erected our tent, had it been
on an affluent of the Meh Nam, might have been chosen for one of the
main posts of a Pramene, or Royal Siamese cremation temple. When a king
of Siam dies, his successor immediately begins making preparations for
the construction of a Pramene, a splendid temporary building, under
which the body, after sitting in state for several days on a throne
glittering with silver, gold, and precious stones, is committed to the
flames.
The late Dr Bradley thus described the erection of the posts in one of
these buildings:—
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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