A thousand miles on an elephant in the Shan StatesHallett, Holt S. (Holt Samuel)
History
A thousand miles on an elephant in the Shan States
Hallett, Holt S. (Holt Samuel)
Laos -- Description and travel; Thailand -- Description and travel
Although there are many areca palms about the place, they do not fruit
well; therefore betel-nuts, as well as seri-leaf, are brought from
Zimmé. Dried fish come from Penyow and Kiang Hsen, and European goods
from Bangkok viâ Lakon. Mr Archer met a number of Toungthoo and Burmese
pedlars at the city; and the inhabitants exchange their cotton with the
Chinese from Yunnan for salt, which the latter have purchased at Lakon
for bartering in the district.
Immigrants from Kiang Hung, belonging to a branch of the Shans known as
Lus, have formed settlements in the country between Muang Peh and Kiang
Khong, as well as in the valley of the Meh Oo, a river that enters the
Meh Kong from the north near the city of Luang Prabang.
The city of Muang Ngow is fringed with, and partially hidden by, fine
fruit-trees; the gardens being rendered beautiful by handsome clumps of
cocoa-nut and areca palms. The _sala_ being in a filthy condition, and
surrounded by a large caravan of laden cattle, we camped in the gardens.
In the evening we were startled by a terrible din which suddenly sprang
up on all sides of us. Swarms of men, women, and children, seemingly
maddened by excitement, were rushing about firing guns, horse-pistols,
rockets, and crackers, in all directions; clashing together gongs,
bells, brass basins, pots, bowls, bamboos, and anything within reach;
and yelling, screeching, and hooting, made night horrible; while the
discord was further increased by the barking and howling of frightened
dogs. An eclipse was occurring—the _Naga_ (or dragon) was swallowing the
moon; and the people, naturally enraged, were determined that he should
disgorge it. After the eclipse was over, clouds gathered over the sky
and we had a sharp shower of rain.
The Buddhist legend that gives the origin of the name of this State is
by no means complimentary to the people. It states that, when Gaudama
Buddha arrived at Ngow and sent to the people announcing his arrival,
they were engaged in fishing. Instead of returning home at once and
putting on decent clothes, they stopped to finish their haul, and then
presented themselves to him in their dripping clothes. On their
approaching him, he exclaimed, “The people of this place are _ngow_
(fools). The Buddha came to visit you, you did not hasten to him, and
when at length you come, it is in this plight.” This legend, I need
hardly say, was not told me in Ngow, but by a _Chow Phya_ of Lakon.
The temperature during the day varied between 69° at 5.30 A.M., 87° at
10 A.M., 92° at noon, 96° at 2.30 P.M., and 95° at 4.10 P.M. During the
hot season it is desirable that the day’s march with elephants should
commence at daybreak and end by noon; afternoons are very oppressive,
and the animals get jaded, particularly when travelling in an open plain
or in a leafless forest.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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