A thousand miles on an elephant in the Shan StatesHallett, Holt S. (Holt Samuel)
History
A thousand miles on an elephant in the Shan States
Hallett, Holt S. (Holt Samuel)
Laos -- Description and travel; Thailand -- Description and travel
Lapoon is of irregular shape, and between 2½ and 3 miles in
circumference. It is surrounded on the three sides not facing the river
by a wet ditch from 40 to 65 feet broad, and is enclosed by a brick
wall, varying outside from 15 to 23 feet in height, and on the inside
from 13 to 18 feet. The parapet of the surrounding wall is 4½ feet high
and 2½ feet thick, and is loopholed for musketry. The city, which is
neatly laid out and beautifully wooded, lies 3½ miles inland to the east
of the Meh Ping. From A.D. 1558, when the Zimmé States became tributary
to Burmah, till 1774, when they accepted the protection of Siam, Lapoon
remained, except during short periods of rebellion, under the Burmese.
From 1779 to 1820 the city was deserted, owing to frequent raids of the
Burmese and Burmese Shans. It was re-established in the latter year by
Chow Boon Neh, the youngest of the seven brothers who ruled in Zimmé,
Lakon, and Lapoon, and whose descendants still govern these States.
In the evening I called on the chief, who holds the title of Chow
Hluang. His palace consists of four buildings—one separate, and the
others forming three sides of a hollow square. The buildings were of the
ordinary type of the residences of the nobility, and had tiled roofs,
and appeared to be substantial structures. On ascending to the verandah,
I found the chief squatting on a carpet spread on a dais, or raised
portion of the floor, giving audience to several of his chiefs and
retainers, and surrounded by his wives. Around him were his emblems of
rank, consisting of gold spittoons, betel utensils, trays,
water-goblets, &c. He was lounging with his elbow on a three-cornered
cushion, enjoying a large cigarette, and being cooled by two pretty
women, who were seated 12 feet behind, wafting the air towards him with
long-handled fans.
He was an elderly, iron-grey-haired man, courteous in his manner, and
far more intelligent-looking than the supreme chief of Zimmé; but he had
enjoyed a good dinner, and evidently did not desire to enter into a long
discussion upon trade. After ordering mats and pillows to be brought for
us, he said that doubtless the projected railway would be an excellent
thing for the country, and would bring many pilgrims to the pagoda. He
was a great advocate for improved communications, and asked me what I
thought of the new bridged cart-road which I had followed from Loi Tee.
Of course he would do what he could to help forward the railway, but he
hoped that it would soon be commenced; for if not, he was so old that it
would not enrich him. Seeing that it was hopeless to get information
from him, as he was trying not to yawn between each sentence, we shook
hands and returned home.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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