A thousand miles on an elephant in the Shan StatesHallett, Holt S. (Holt Samuel)
History
A thousand miles on an elephant in the Shan States
Hallett, Holt S. (Holt Samuel)
Laos -- Description and travel; Thailand -- Description and travel
HOUSE FOR DR CUSHING BUILT IN TWO DAYS—FUMIGATION AND
DISINFECTION—BRIBERY AND EXTORTION AT FRONTIER
GUARD-HOUSE—TRAVELLERS DELAYED—MR WEBSTER’S JOURNEY—TRADE BETWEEN
ZIMMÉ, BANGKOK, AND MAULMAIN; ENHANCEMENT OF PRICES—COMPARISON
BETWEEN RUSSIA AND SIAM—OPPRESSION AND TYRANNY CAUSES CUNNING AND
DECEIT—SIAMESE THE GREATEST LIARS IN THE EAST—AN AMUSING INTERVIEW
WITH A PRINCE—RELIGIOUS BUILDINGS IN ZIMMÉ—DESCRIPTION OF
MONASTERIES—BARGAINING WITH AN ABBOT—PALM-LEAF BOOKS—EVIL PRACTICES
OF MONKS—SENTENCING THE DESCENDANTS OF CRIMINALS TO SLAVERY—BEGGING
FOR MEALS—GIVING, A PRIVILEGE—RULES FOR THE ACOLYTES—SHAVING THE
HEAD AND EYEBROWS—TEACHING IN A MONASTERY—LEARNING MANNERS.
A few days before my return to Zimmé the Rev. Mr Martin arrived with his
wife from Bangkok, and occupied the half of Dr M‘Gilvary’s house which
had formerly been placed at my disposal. It was therefore arranged that
Dr Cushing should be placed in a house in Dr Peoples’ grounds, where he
could receive proper nursing and medical attendance. This building had
been erected as soon as it was known that Dr Cushing was suffering from
smallpox. With plenty of labour and materials at hand, such a house,
built of bamboos, with mat walls and flooring and thatched roof, can be
easily completed in two days.
A wealthy Chinaman who had for some years worked the Government spirit
and opium farms, and owned a large vacant teak-built, shingle-roofed
house near the Presbyterian Mission, had courteously placed it rent free
at the disposal of Mr Webster on his reaching Zimmé with his wife and
little girl from where we left them at the Shan frontier-post. The house
being very roomy, and the Websters without fear of contagion, half of
this building was handed over for my use.
On seeing my elephant halt outside his garden, Dr M‘Gilvary came out to
bid me welcome and let me know what arrangements had been made. He
advised me to have a grand fumigation of myself, servants, and things,
and to be revaccinated as soon as possible. He had already been
purified, and was going at once to Dr Peoples to be vaccinated.
On reaching the monopolist’s house, I was welcomed by Mr and Mrs
Webster, and by little Sunshine their daughter, but would not shake
hands with them until I had been fumigated and freshly rigged out. I at
once sent out for sulphur, and with my boys was soon in a closed room,
surrounded with its fumes. All of our things were disinfected by being
washed with a strong solution of carbolic acid. After my short
quarantine I had tea and a long talk with the Websters, who had been
detained for a week after we left the guard-house, owing to their
conscientious objections to bribing the official in command of the
guard.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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