A thousand miles on an elephant in the Shan StatesHallett, Holt S. (Holt Samuel)
History
A thousand miles on an elephant in the Shan States
Hallett, Holt S. (Holt Samuel)
Laos -- Description and travel; Thailand -- Description and travel
On your entering a monastery the abbot does not rise, but, if accustomed
to Europeans, he shakes hands, and calls for a mat for you to sit on,
and three-cornered pillows to rest your back and elbows. After the usual
compliments, and having partially satisfied his curiosity as to your
purpose in visiting the country, where you have been, where you are
going, and as to your age, he will very likely tell you his eyesight is
much impaired, and more than hint that a present of a pair of spectacles
would be acceptable.
If in search of curiosities, you may then express your admiration of the
row of images of Buddha standing on a raised stand against the wall in
the background, and ask permission to examine them. Before the images
you will see offerings of taper candles, flowers, and prayer-flags; and
you will notice perhaps that the largest image is made of alabaster, in
which case it has been carried all the way from the famous quarries at
Moway, which are situated in the range of hills above Sagain in Upper
Burmah. Standing about this image, or on a lower shelf, will be other
images, some of wood or clay covered with gold-leaf, some of silver
having a core of a hard resin, others of soapstone, and some of
terra-cotta, the latter resembling Roman Catholic saints in their
sculptured niches.
If you wish to bargain for any one of these, the abbot will express
himself shocked, and will say that he cannot part with it, as it has
been offered to by the people. If you pull out some silver coins, and
say that you much wish to have the one you have chosen, he will most
likely begin to boggle his eyes, and will perhaps send his scholars off
to play, under the pretence that they are a nuisance to you, and, as
soon as their backs are turned, commence to haggle over the price like
an old Jew. Even when you have come to terms with him, he will, to salve
his conscience, exact a promise from you to treat the image with
respect, for, if not, ill will happen to you as well as to himself.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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