A thousand miles on an elephant in the Shan StatesHallett, Holt S. (Holt Samuel)
History
A thousand miles on an elephant in the Shan States
Hallett, Holt S. (Holt Samuel)
Laos -- Description and travel; Thailand -- Description and travel
In the evening the governor of Kiang Dow, who has the title of Pau Muang
(Father of the State), came with his brother to pay us a visit, and gave
us some information about trade-routes and the upper course of the
river. He told us that the Burmese Shans held the upper valleys of the
Meh Ping and Meh Teng, and that the villages in Muang Hăng belonged to
them. The nearest Ngio villages on the Meh Ping were two days’ journey
up the valley, and were called Ban Sang, and Tone Pa Khom. The road to
Muang Hăng, he said, passed in a defile through the hills, and crossed
no range. Mr Gould, who subsequently visited this Muang, found this
information was correct.
The next day being Sunday, I halted, according to agreement with my
missionary companions, who made it a rule never to travel on Sunday,
unless it was necessary to do so. Before breakfast we strolled to the
ruins of a city called Viang Chai, some distance from Kiang Dow, where
we found a pagoda 25 feet square, built of laterite that appeared to be
of ancient date. This Viang was surrounded by a rampart and two ditches,
one 40 feet wide and 15 feet deep, and the other 20 feet wide and 10
feet deep. There are said to be three Viang Hau (Chinese cities or
forts) in the neighbourhood. When returning, I noticed a man resembling
a Kamook, but with wavy hair, sitting with a group of people who were
gazing at us; and on inquiry I was glad to learn that he was a Kamait,
and seized the opportunity to arrange for taking his vocabulary early
the next morning. In the afternoon Dr M‘Gilvary and Mr Martin held a
service, after which we wandered about and had a talk with the
villagers.
The following morning the Kamait came accompanied by two companions. I
was surprised to find that the Kamait language has a closer affinity to
Bau Lawah than to Kamook, although the Kamooks and Kamaits have long
been close neighbours. The three languages are evidently derived from a
Mon stock. I was so taken up with the translation of the Kamait’s
vocabulary, that on its conclusion I gave orders for the loading of the
elephants, altogether forgetting that we had not had our early morning’s
meal, and was humorously remonstrated with by my companions. This was
soon served, and we left the city by the north gate.
After passing through some rice-fields and a teak-forest, we crossed a
low flat-topped spur for about a mile, when we came to the Huay Sai, a
small stream which forms the boundary between Kiang Dow and Muang Ngai.
Fresh flowers had been placed on an altar erected on the stream-bank.
Just before crossing the stream a road leaves the path for Muang Fang.
The boundary cuts the path at 40 miles from Zimmé. A mile farther we
came to Ban Meh Kaun, and breakfasted in its temple.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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