A thousand miles on an elephant in the Shan StatesHallett, Holt S. (Holt Samuel)
History
A thousand miles on an elephant in the Shan States
Hallett, Holt S. (Holt Samuel)
Laos -- Description and travel; Thailand -- Description and travel
The missionaries then dismounted, and sent the elephants a short
distance away, and took up the stations assigned to them by the hunter.
The drivers then approached in a big semicircle, but nothing appeared,
and my friends again mounted their elephants, to cross some damp low
ground to another part of the plain. Suddenly a deer sprang up close to
Mr Martin, and he fired and missed. Meanwhile the men started another,
which likewise escaped. The projecting hood of the howdah, together with
the presence of the mahout on the elephant’s head, doubtless helped to
spoil the aim of the mounted sportsmen, particularly as the elephants
got excited with the sport. In the next drive one of the men got a shot,
but when he went to pick up his deer it started up and disappeared in
the long grass. After lunch they made tracks homeward. On the way the
hunter got one shot, Dr M‘Gilvary four, and Mr Martin two more, and at
least half-a-dozen deer got away without being fired at. They arrived
tired and hungry, with a good many empty cartridges, but with no game.
In the meantime I had stayed behind to sketch the hills, fix their
positions, and take the diurnal curve from the aneroid barometer and
boiling-point thermometer, and had not the heart to chaff my companions
when they returned with empty bags. The plain of Muang Fang averages 7
or 8 miles in width, and is over 30 miles long.
The next day being Sunday, Dr M‘Gilvary and Mr Martin made it a day of
rest, and stayed behind visiting and preaching to the people, whilst I
journeyed five miles to the north-east to sketch the country from Ban
Meh Hang, where I obtained capital views of the junction of the valleys
of the Meh Khoke and the Meh Fang, the rivers meeting about 15 miles to
the east-north-east. At the same time I got a view of the Loi Tum Tap
Tow, now 22 miles distant, and two other limestone bluffs that jutted up
in the plain.
On my return I proposed to my companions to visit Muang Hang, which was
said to be about three days’ journey due east from Muang Fang, and the
sources of the Meh Ping and Meh Hang, and see where the latter passed
under the hills; but circumstances were against us—our oatmeal,
biscuits, sugar, tea, cocoa, chocolate, kitchen-salt, treacle, and milk,
had all been consumed or appropriated by the nimble-fingered
elephant-men, who seemed to consider that they had a right to feed
themselves surreptitiously at our expense on the route. Vayloo and Jewan
had fever, and Loogalay had dysentery. To put a finishing touch to our
disasters, the driver of the vicious elephant had somehow provoked its
anger, and the animal had knocked him down and tried to kill him with
his tusks. Luckily he had escaped with a few bruises, a damaged hand,
and a grazed side. So we had to give up the extra journey, and settled
to return by Viang Pow and Muang Ken.
[Illustration:
_View up the Meh Fang valley from Ban Meh Hang._
]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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