A thousand miles on an elephant in the Shan StatesHallett, Holt S. (Holt Samuel)
History
A thousand miles on an elephant in the Shan States
Hallett, Holt S. (Holt Samuel)
Laos -- Description and travel; Thailand -- Description and travel
Previous to the establishing of Muang Fang, purchasers from Zimmé bought
the surplus rice at a rupee for 8½ buckets; but in times of scarcity,
like 1884, the people received a rupee for 5 buckets. No import duties
are levied in the district. When telling us of the average number of
people in each house, which, according to him, was six, he said that
amongst the Zimmé Shans only one son-in-law is allowed at the same time
to live with the wife’s parents. When the second daughter marries, the
first removes to a house of her own.
The journey from Viang Pow to Kiang Dow takes only one day. To Ban Nong
Kwang, on the Meh Low, the journey is done in three days. The range of
hills crossed on the latter route, according to him, is as easy, and
about the same height, as those crossed between Muang Fang and Viang
Pow. An ancient city called Viang Wai (the city of rattan-canes) is
situated 8 miles to the west of Viang Pow.
The next day we left Viang Pow, and continued through the plain some
distance to the east of the Meh Ngat until the plateaux on either side
commenced to draw in at 39 miles, when we crossed the river, which had
enlarged to 55 feet in breadth and 8 feet in depth, with 1½ foot of
water in the bed, and is 1300 feet above the sea. Up to this point the
plain had continued from 9 to 7 miles broad. Several villages and large
tracts of rice-fields were passed. Near the hills the plain had the
appearance of a beautifully timbered park.
[Illustration:
_View across Muang Ken and the valley of the Meh Ping._
]
On a low plateau that rises some twelve feet above the fields, _padouk_
trees were in flower, and numerous cattail orchids adorned the branches
of the smaller trees. The _Mai ma-kate_, a shrub bearing both white and
yellow jessamine-shaped flowers, and the Rangoon creeper, were
frequently seen, as well as the tree bearing the gooseberry fruit, and a
small tree with fruit resembling lemons in scent, colour, and shape.
This latter fruit is held in high esteem by the Shans for its supposed
healing qualities. I noticed the men plucking it as they went along, and
scrubbing their skin with it. At one place, when passing some clumps of
stunted trees, we came suddenly upon a group of Karen villagers, who,
with their cloth blankets hooded over their heads and clutched round
their bodies, reminded me strongly of pictures of gnomes in the Black
Forest.
[Illustration:
_Hills west of the Meh Ping at 11.55 A.M. 23d May._
]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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