A thousand miles on an elephant in the Shan StatesHallett, Holt S. (Holt Samuel)
History
A thousand miles on an elephant in the Shan States
Hallett, Holt S. (Holt Samuel)
Laos -- Description and travel; Thailand -- Description and travel
The taxes are very light in this _Muang_, consisting of a basket of
paddy for each basket sown; and the monopolies consist of only pork and
tobacco. The monopolist takes a rupee and a half on each pig slaughtered
for ordinary use, and one rupee if it is killed for spirit-worship; on
tobacco he takes a quarter of a rupee on each hundred tobacco-plants.
There are no spirit, opium, or gambling farms in the district; the
people being addicted to none of these vices. A tax of ten rupees is
levied on the sale of an elephant, half of which is paid by the seller
and half by the purchaser.
Having thanked the governor for the information, we had the elephants
loaded, and resumed our march. We shortly afterwards crossed the Meh Hau
Prat (a stream 30 feet wide and 10 feet deep, with 1 foot of water),
which drains the valley of Muang Ken. We then proceeded across several
spurs from Loi Tat Muang Ken, and reached the Zimmé plain at 16 miles,
near the village of Ban Hom Luang, in whose fields I halted to sketch
the hills lying to the west of the Meh Ping, and to the south of the
valley of the Meh Teng.
From the village to Zimmé is one great rice-plain, containing numerous
villages, and beautified by orchards and by flowering shrubs, notably
the _Mai cha-lau_, which in parts gave the fields the aspect of gardens
of standard rhododendrons. It soon became so dark that I had to close
the survey for the night, and hurry on to Ban Meh Set, where I found my
companions accommodated in the house of Noy Sing Kat, one of Dr
M‘Gilvary’s converts, and was hospitably entertained by Cheen Tah, his
wife, he being absent from the village. The house was full of small red
ants, which got through our mosquito-curtains and made us pass a
miserably restless night, not improved by the sound of a ceaseless
downpour of rain.
In conversation with Dr M‘Gilvary after dinner, he told me that women
were very well treated amongst the Shans, quite as well as amongst the
Burmese, and this is particularly noticeable in cases preferred by women
against men in the courts; the woman’s word being taken as indisputable
evidence. Child marriage is unknown in the country; divorces are very
rare; marriage is a matter of choice, and not of trade; and the aged are
respected by their relations and cared for.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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