A thousand miles on an elephant in the Shan StatesHallett, Holt S. (Holt Samuel)
History
A thousand miles on an elephant in the Shan States
Hallett, Holt S. (Holt Samuel)
Laos -- Description and travel; Thailand -- Description and travel
After dinner, in the course of conversation, Dr Cushing, thinking,
perhaps, that I was a Mark Tapley, and that a lugubrious tale might
cheer me up, told me that he was a most unlucky companion to travel
with. All his former comrades had died on the journey, or soon
afterwards. He then backed up his statement with three instances. Kelly,
a missionary, was drowned one day’s journey from Moné; Lyon, another
missionary, had died of consumption at Bhamo; and Cooper had been killed
by one of his guard at Bhamo. I instanced his wife, who was then in
America, as an exception. It was of no use—she was his better half—I was
a doomed man.
Next morning the thermometer stood at 48°, the same as it had been at
Maing Loongyee. The trees, however, were shedding their leaves far less
in the upper valley than in the lower country. Starting about eight
o’clock, accompanied by the mournful wailing of gibbons, who were
practising the trapeze from tree to tree far above our heads, and making
astounding leaps, we continued up the glen, passing large droves of
Karen pigs, and caravans of laden cattle, until the stream forked, and
we ascended the intermediate spur to the crest of Loi Kom Ngam—the
Beautiful Golden Mountain—the hill-range dividing the drainage of the
Meh Sa Lin from that of the Meh Laik.
[Illustration:
_View looking west down Pass at 10.53 A.M. 14th February._
]
Gigantic tree-ferns, and the first chestnuts we had seen, were passed as
we clambered the spur; and we noticed trees in bloom bearing a red
flower, and a large periwinkle-blue creeper which, spreading over the
largest trees, spangled them with blossoms. Before reaching the summit
we had a magnificent view down the nine miles of valley we had been
ascending, extending across the Meh Mum valley to the hills beyond the
Salween river. The pass, which is 109 miles from Hlineboay, is 3609 feet
above sea-level.
A short descent of 70 feet brought us to a little valley, which we
crossed; then following a spur, we descended to the Meh Hau, a small
stream draining into the Meh Laik here at a level of 2638 feet above the
sea. We had fallen nearly 1000 feet in less than three miles. Crossing
the spur which separates the Meh Hau from the Meh Lye, we halted for the
night near some springs at the 115th mile.
Left the next morning at seven o’clock and descended for a mile to the
Meh Lye, passing on our way 109 laden cattle. The Meh Lai—River of
Variegated Water—is 20 feet wide and five feet deep; sandstone and
quartz outcrop in its bed. Looking down-stream to the south, we had a
pretty view, bounded by pine-clad spurs, into the Meh Laik valley.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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