A thousand miles on an elephant in the Shan StatesHallett, Holt S. (Holt Samuel)
History
A thousand miles on an elephant in the Shan States
Hallett, Holt S. (Holt Samuel)
Laos -- Description and travel; Thailand -- Description and travel
Our Karen mahouts had been replaced by Shans at Maing Loongyee. The
Shans proved much more cruel drivers than the Karens. The latter seldom
used the cruel-looking hammer-hook, or _ankus_, they all carry, but coax
and talk to the elephants; whilst the Shans correct the slightest
misdemeanour by a blow that draws blood, and seek for obedience solely
by bullying the beasts. The drivers, both Shan and Karen, urge their
elephants on by a continuous irritation of the creature’s ears with
their toes, which are worked in an incessant pendulous movement at the
back of them. They likewise assume all sorts of attitudes on the
animal’s head. Squatting on one leg with the other dangling down,
lolling over the bump on its forehead, straddle-legged, and side-saddle
fashion, but for ever with one set of toes or the other, or both,
titillating the brute’s ears.
[Illustration:
_Loi Pwe seen over a spur at 9.57 A.M. 15th February._
_Note._—<6° and <16° imply angles to the east of north, north being 0°
and 360°—90° is east, 180° is south,
and 270° west from the point whence they are taken.
]
From the Meh Lai we ascended a small glen for a little more than a mile,
and shortly afterwards entered a narrow defile, where we halted for a
few minutes to allow 135 laden cattle and a drove of 40 pigs to pass.
Leaving the defile, a magnificent panorama spread out before us. Looking
west, the eye ranged over the spurs we had crossed since leaving the
pass. To the north about eight miles distant, over the hills bordering
the Meh Sa Lin valley, stood out clear against the sky the bald-headed
and partly precipitous summit of Loi Pwe. Here was a chance, not to be
lost, for taking sketches and photographs and fixing the lie of the
country.
Loi Pwe is the nucleus from which many of the spurs and minor ranges
stretching into the valleys of the Meh Nium and Meh Laik have their
origin. It is joined on to the Bau plateau by spurs some 15 miles in
length, radiating in straight lines. Most of the hills in this region
are approximately of similar elevation, their crests seeming to be the
remains of a great rolling table-land eaten into valleys by centuries of
erosion in the stream-beds.
On remounting the elephant, the howdah, owing to the slackness of the
girth, commenced to lose its equilibrium, and I should have been
precipitated to the ground, a distance of 11 feet, if I had not stepped
on to the head of the beast and saved myself from falling by clinging to
the greasy perspiring mahout. I had presence of mind sufficient to
pocket my watch and instruments, or they would have inevitably been
ruined.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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