A thousand miles on an elephant in the Shan StatesHallett, Holt S. (Holt Samuel)
History
A thousand miles on an elephant in the Shan States
Hallett, Holt S. (Holt Samuel)
Laos -- Description and travel; Thailand -- Description and travel
The air every moment became hotter as the sun rose and darted its rays
through the clear sky, the soil of the plateau was of a deep red colour,
and the glare where the forest had been cleared soon became distressing.
Continuing along a ridge bordering the northern edge of the plateau, we
reached Bau-gyee at eleven, and halted to inspect the village and for
breakfast.
Bau-gyee, as the Burmese call it, or Bau Hluang as it is termed by the
Shans—“Hluang” and “gyee” both meaning “great”—is situated 137½ miles
from Hlineboay and 3704 feet above sea-level. It is in three
divisions—two of 30 houses each, and one of 21 houses. The villagers are
Lawas, and gain their livelihood as blacksmiths and miners, procuring
and smelting the ore at a hill lying to the north of Loi Pwe, two days’
elephant journey from the village.
The mines are said to average 50 feet in depth, and to be guarded by
demons who have to be propitiated by offerings of pigs or fowls. If the
ore dug up is poor, the sacrifices are repeated so as to persuade the
_pee_, or demon, to allow it to yield more iron. The ore is smelted at
the Lawa village of Oon Pai, situated near the mines. No stranger is
allowed to watch the process lest the _pee_ should be offended; and the
ingots are carried on elephants to the Lawa villages, where it is
manufactured into various articles which find a sale throughout the
country. The ore mined is the common red oxide of iron.
Whilst breakfast was being prepared we went into the village to have a
chat with the people and watch them at their work. The houses are of the
ordinary pattern occupied by the Zimmé Shans, built on posts, with the
floor raised several feet from the ground, the sides of the building
slightly inclining outwards as they rise towards the roof, which is
steep and high. Many of the houses are small and dirty, and have
pig-pens beneath them.
We found several of the men at work making chains, but they stopped as
we appeared. After we had talked with them for a little while, a lad, of
about twelve years of age, heated some iron, and seizing a hammer,
forged several links of a chain as skilfully and quickly as any man of
mature age could have done. An old man showed us several specimens of
the ore, but would not allow us to take them away for fear the demons of
the mine should be offended.
Their bellows and other implements are curious; the anvil is three
inches square and two inches high, formed of a large spike driven into a
log of wood. Another implement shaped like a triangular hoe at the top,
five inches long and one and a half inch at the base, was likewise
spiked into a log of wood, exposing six inches of the spike; this was
used for forging hooks and elephant chains.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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