A thousand miles on an elephant in the Shan StatesHallett, Holt S. (Holt Samuel)
History
A thousand miles on an elephant in the Shan States
Hallett, Holt S. (Holt Samuel)
Laos -- Description and travel; Thailand -- Description and travel
Small valleys gradually formed and deepened on either side of us as we
descended slowly, halting at times for caravans of laden cattle to pass
us. After crossing a torrent 40 feet broad and 3 feet deep, flowing from
the great spur on the north, we camped for breakfast on the bank of the
Meh Pa-pai, at the corner of the elbow-bend where it turns east. At our
crossing, 145½ miles from Hlineboay and 1672 feet above the sea, this
stream flows in a solid bed of granite, 82 feet broad, with banks 6 feet
high.
When halting at this spot with Dr Cushing, his wife had a narrow escape.
During the heat of the day she was startled from sleep by feeling
something crawling over her. She at once suspected that it was a snake,
and had the courage and presence of mind to remain perfectly still while
it crawled up her arm, and over her face, and away from her temple.
Then, unable to restrain herself longer, she jumped up and screamed as
she watched the large spotted viper disappearing in the grass.
After breakfast we followed along the flat slopes on the side of the
stream—the crests of the undulations of the rolling plain we had
descended to being at times 50 and 60 feet above us, and small hills
occasionally jutted in from both sides. In places where, in order to cut
the bends of the stream, we crossed the undulating plateau, which was
evidently part of an old lake-bottom, the elephants had worn the path
down as deep as themselves, exposing the earth formation, which is mixed
with small rounded gravel.
The country was weird in the extreme, the grass parched up; the trees,
the bamboos, and even the great creepers strangling the trees, leafless;
and the stream looking like burnished steel in its lavender-coloured
granite bed. There was a dead stillness about the scene; the orange-red
flowers of the _pouk_ trees seemed to flame out of the forest.
After following the stream for five miles, we left it flowing to our
right, and proceeding over the undulating ground, crossed a low hillock
lying between it and the Huay Sai, a stream 30 feet broad and 5 feet
deep. Crossing this stream, we entered the ruby-mine district. The
ground as far as the Huay Bau Kyow is covered with sharp fragments of
quartz, sandstone, and granite, which have been broken by people in
search of the gems. Many of great value are said to have been found
here. The workings have been merely on the surface and in the banks of
the stream; if scientifically worked, the mines might prove very
valuable.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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