A thousand miles on an elephant in the Shan StatesHallett, Holt S. (Holt Samuel)
History
A thousand miles on an elephant in the Shan States
Hallett, Holt S. (Holt Samuel)
Laos -- Description and travel; Thailand -- Description and travel
The wages of each boatman to Bangkok varied between 70 and 80 rupees; to
Raheng, from 24 to 25 rupees; to Paknam Po, 30 rupees; and to Zimmé, 15
rupees. The time taken by a boat in going to Bangkok averaged fifteen
days in the rains, and thirty days in the dry season. From Bangkok to
Muang Haut took forty-five days in the rains, and two months in the dry
season. From Zimmé to Muang Haut took two days in the rains, and from
four to five in the dry season. From Muang Haut to Zimmé, six days in
the dry season; in the rains the journey was always done by elephant.
A caravan-man conducting eight to ten laden bullocks from Zimmé to Muang
Haut and back received 10 rupees with food, or 15 rupees without food,
the journey there taking him eight days. From Zimmé to Maulmain and back
he got 20 rupees with food, or 30 rupees without food, the journey there
taking thirty days. A good bullock carries 40 viss; a small one, 30
viss: no load is ever placed on a cow.
A porter carrying 20 viss—66⅔ lb.—receives 2 rupees a viss going to
Maulmain, and the same returning to Zimmé, or at the rate of Rs. 1344 a
ton carried either way. The journey for a quick travelling porter from
Zimmé to Maulmain takes fifteen days, and the same back.
The rainfall at Muang Haut and Zimmé was less than at Maing Loongyee.
Sometimes for a whole month in the rains it only drizzled now and then.
The previous year the crops on the higher ground had suffered through
deficient rainfall. The rice-fields yielded a hundred-fold on the best
land, and from fifty-fold upwards on the poorest. The town contained
fifty houses; its inhabitants were traders and cultivators, chiefly the
former.
Having pumped the head-man dry, we wandered through the town and
inspected the religious buildings. The temple was a fine building 54
feet long, varying in breadth from 17 feet at the porch, 21 feet at the
two ends, to 24 feet in the central portion. The roofs were in two
tiers, leaving a space of 2 or 3 feet between the tiers. The roof of the
centre portion rose higher than that of each end, and the roof of the
porch was lower. Leading up to the porch was a plastered brick
staircase. The floor and walls were likewise of plastered brickwork, and
stopped some distance from the roof, which was supported by teak posts,
those on the outside being built into the wall. In the centre portion,
and the end next the porch, wooden gratings were let into the walls to
aid in lighting the buildings. The interior posts which supported the
upper tiers of the central portion were painted black, with an
ornamental band of gilding 4½ feet from the ground. The two posts in the
chancel were painted red, with a similar gilded band at the same height
from the ground. Inside the chancel was a sitting image of Gaudama 10
feet high, and six others 4 feet high, besides a dozen smaller ones.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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