A thousand miles on an elephant in the Shan StatesHallett, Holt S. (Holt Samuel)
History
A thousand miles on an elephant in the Shan States
Hallett, Holt S. (Holt Samuel)
Laos -- Description and travel; Thailand -- Description and travel
The Meh Hkuang rises in the hills to the north-east of Zimmé, close to
the sources of the Meh Low, and by means of canals and irrigating
channels irrigates the Zimmé and Lapoon plain nearly to the bank of the
Meh Ping. A short distance from its mouth it is joined by the Meh Ta, on
which lies the large village of Pa Sang, where Chow Ka Wi La, the
successor of Phya Cha Ban, established his court for the fifteen years
previous to the reoccupation of Zimmé in 1796. Owing to the rebellion of
the Zimmé Shans against the Burmese in 1774, when they threw off the
Burman yoke and accepted the protection of Siam, a period of warfare
ensued. The Burmese besieged Zimmé in 1775. When relieved by the
approach of a Siamese force, the Zimmé Shans scattered to the north and
south, and the chief, Phya Cha Ban, removed his court to Ta Wang Pow,
and, on the approach of a Burmese force, fled to Raheng. The Burmese
entered Siam, but were repulsed after they had taken several Siamese
cities. The Zimmé chief then returned with his people to Wang Pow. In
1777, owing to a fresh advance of the Burmese, he removed his court to
Nong Long, but the following year, owing to the retirement of the
Burmese, fixed it at Lapoon, where he was attacked by the chiefs of
Kiang Hai and Kiang Hsen. He then fled southwards and set up his court
at Wang Sa Kang. Zimmé was deserted for twenty years, 1776–1796, and
Lapoon for forty-one years, 1779–1820.
Two miles beyond Pa Sang we halted for the night at a village on the
eastern bank, where ten great spider-web wheels in continuous motion
watered the gardens and neighbouring fields. The music made by the axles
of these wheels working on the trestles which supported them, resembled
the tones of an organ, and at night lulled us to sleep.
Next morning we passed a brick-field where seven small clamps, each ten
feet square and five feet high, were being burned. Close by, on the
opposite bank, a miniature Shan house, about the size of a large
pigeon-house, had been built for the accommodation of a local demon.
Many such houses, even in the grounds of temples, were subsequently seen
along the route. The boatmen passing us in the various craft were now
all clad, as the villages were numerous, and roads skirted the river.
Several of them were wearing billycock felt hats, common amongst
lower-class Chinamen.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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