A thousand miles on an elephant in the Shan StatesHallett, Holt S. (Holt Samuel)
History
A thousand miles on an elephant in the Shan States
Hallett, Holt S. (Holt Samuel)
Laos -- Description and travel; Thailand -- Description and travel
In the shops adjoining the market, some of which are kept by Chinamen
and Burmese, the occupiers are general dealers. In them are kept for
sale umbrellas and fans, lacquered brass, and crockery-ware, native
embroideries, English cotton piece-goods, broadcloths, velvets,
velveteens, satins, silks, muslins, Chinese silks and crapes, silk
jackets and trousers, silk jackets lined with fur, German aniline dyes
and needles, Swedish and English matches, tinned salmon, sardines, milk,
butter, jam, swords, knives, nails, gongs, hoes, large shallow iron
pans, iron tripods for setting over the fire, brimstone, bluestone,
arsenic, native and patent medicines, pestles and mortars for elderly
toothless people to crush their betel-nut in, vegetable-wax tapers for
burning in the temples, Chinese perfumery, and pictorial paper scrolls;
kerosene oil and lamps, glass basins, decanters and mantelpiece vases,
and a selection of earthenware jars, pots and pans; in fact, all that a
native purchaser has learned to desire.
Passing from the outer into the inner town, we continued along the main
road until we came to the enclosure wall of the palace grounds. The gate
of the palace lies 1140 yards from the entrance of the inner town, and
leads into an extensive court containing several buildings. The palace
faces the gate, and is a substantial one-storeyed building, slightly
Chinese in aspect, with brick walls, plastered over with an excellent
cement, and a tiled roof.
Ascending a flight of steps, paved with black tiles, we entered the
audience-hall, which occupied the whole front of the building. The floor
of the hall is inlaid with various woods, several chandeliers hung from
the ceiling, and the walls were papered like an English drawing-room,
and adorned with long, narrow, gilt-framed mirrors. The remainder of the
furniture consisted of a lounge, an easy-chair, a dozen drawing-room
chairs, upholstered in green rep, and a small tea-table. Through the
doors leading into the private apartments some elegantly designed carved
lattice-work partitions were seen, which served as screens to the
interior of the palace.
A few minutes after we were seated, the king, dressed in a green silk
_loongyee_ or skirt, and a white cotton jacket with gold buttons,
entered the hall, and after shaking hands, welcomed us in a quiet and
dignified manner. Tea was then brought in, and we seated ourselves round
the table. After a few preliminary remarks, Dr M‘Gilvary told him the
object of my visit, and the great boon to his country that the
construction of a railway to connect it with Burmah and China would be.
He was rather thick-skulled, and had never been remarkable for
intelligence. He could not understand how trains could move faster than
ponies, or how they could move at all without being drawn by some
animal. Anyhow, they could not ascend the hills, for they would slide
down unless they were pulled up.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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