Egypt -- Description and travel; Egypt -- History -- 19th century; Nile River -- Description and travel
latest ovals the name and style of Nero, the present building was still
comparatively new when, in A.D. 379, the ancient religion was abolished
by the edict of Theodosius. It was then the most gorgeous as well as the
most recent of all those larger temples built during the prosperous
foreign rule of the last seven hundred years. It stood, surrounded by
groves of palm and acacia, within the precincts of a vast inclosure, the
walls of which, one thousand feet in length, thirty-five feet in height
and fifteen feet thick, are still traceable. A dromos, now buried under
twenty feet of débris, led from the pylon to the portico. The pylon is
there still, a partial ruin; but the temple, with its roof, its
staircases and its secret treasure-crypts, is in all essential respects
as perfect as on the day when its splendor was given over to the
spoilers. One can easily imagine how these spoilers sacked and ravaged
all before them; how they desecrated the sacred places and cast down the
statues of the goddess and divided the treasures of the sanctuary. They
did not, it is true, commit such wholesale destruction as the Persian
invaders of nine hundred years before; but they were merciless
iconoclasts and hacked away the face of every figure within easy reach,
both inside and outside the building.
Among those which escaped, however, is the famous external bas-relief of
Cleopatra on the back of the temple. This curious sculpture is now
banked up with rubbish for its better preservation and can no longer be
seen by travelers. It was, however, admirably photographed some years
ago by Signor Beati; which photograph is faithfully reproduced in the
annexed engraving. Cleopatra is here represented with a head-dress
combining the attributes of three goddesses; namely, the vulture of Maut
(the head of which is modeled in a masterly way), the horned disk of
Hathor and the throne of Isis. The falling mass below the head-dress is
intended to represent hair dressed according to the Egyptian fashion, in
an infinite number of small plaits, each finished off with an ornamental
tag. The women of Egypt and Nubia wear their hair so to this day and
unplait it, I am sorry to say, not oftener than once in every eight or
ten weeks. The Nubian girls fasten each separate tail with a lump of
Nile mud daubed over with yellow ocher; but Queen Cleopatra’s silken
tresses were probably tipped with gilded wax or gum.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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