Egypt -- Description and travel; Egypt -- History -- 19th century; Nile River -- Description and travel
Thus, candle in hand, we make the circuit of these outer chambers. In
each doorway, besides the place cut out for the bolt, we find a circular
hole drilled above and a quadrant-shaped hollow below, where once upon a
time the pivot of the door turned in its socket. The paved floors, torn
up by treasure-seekers, are full of treacherous holes and blocks of
broken stone. The ceilings are very lofty. In the corridors a dim
twilight reigns; but all is pitch-dark beyond these gloomy thresholds.
Hurrying along by the light of a few flaring candles, one cannot but
feel oppressed by the strangeness and awfulness of the place. We speak
with bated breath, and even our chattering Arabs for once are silent.
The very air tastes as if it had been imprisoned here for centuries.
Finally, we take the staircase on the northern side of the temple, in
order to go up to the roof. Nothing that we have yet seen surprises and
delights us so much, I think, as this staircase.
We have hitherto been tracing in their order all the preparations for a
great religious ceremony. We have seen the king enter the temple;
undergo the symbolical purification; receive the twofold crown; and say
his prayers to each divinity in turn. We have followed him into the
laboratories, the oratories, and the holy of holies. All that he has yet
done, however, is preliminary. The procession is yet to come, and here
we have it. Here, sculptured on the walls of this dark staircase, the
crowning ceremony of Egyptian worship is brought before our eyes in all
its details. Here, one by one, we have the standard-bearers, the
hierophants with the offerings, the priests, the whole long, wonderful
procession, with the king marching at its head. Fresh and uninjured, as
if they had but just left the hand of the sculptor, these figures--each
in his habit as he lived, each with his foot upon the step--mount with
us as we mount, and go beside us all the way. Their attitudes are so
natural, their forms so roundly cut, that one could almost fancy them in
motion as the lights flicker by. Surely there must be some one weird
night in the year when they step out from their places and take up the
next verse of their chanted hymn, and, to the sound of instruments long
mute and songs long silent, pace the moonlit roof in ghostly order!
The sun is already down and the crimson light has faded, when at length
we emerge upon that vast terrace. The roofing-stones are gigantic.
Striding to and fro over some of the biggest, our idle man finds several
that measure seven paces in length by four in breadth. In yonder distant
corner, like a little stone lodge in a vast court-yard, stands a small
temple supported on Hathor-headed columns; while at the eastern end,
forming a second and loftier stage, rises the roof of the portico.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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