Egypt -- Description and travel; Egypt -- History -- 19th century; Nile River -- Description and travel
So stately was the approach made by Rameses the Great to the temple
founded about a hundred and fifty years before his time by Amenhotep
III. He also built the court-yard upon which this pylon opened, joining
it to the older part of the building in such wise that the original
first court became now the second court, while next in order came the
portico, the hall of assembly, and the sanctuary. By and by, when the
long line of Rameses had passed away, other and later kings put their
hands to the work. The names of Shabaka (Sabaco), of Ptolemy Philopater
and of Alexander the younger appear among the later inscriptions; while
those of Amenhotep IV (Khu-en-Aten), Horemheb and Seti, the father of
Rameses the Great, are found in the earlier parts of the building. It
was in this way that an Egyptian temple grew from age to age, owing a
colonnade to this king and a pylon to that, till it came in time to
represent the styles of many periods. Hence, too, that frequent
irregularity of plan, which, unless it could be ascribed to the caprices
of successive builders, would form so unaccountable a feature in
Egyptian architecture. In the present instance, the pylon and court-yard
of Rameses II are set at an angle of five degrees to the court-yard and
sanctuary of Amenhotep III. This has evidently been done to bring the
Temple of Luxor into a line with the Temple of Karnak, in order that the
two might be connected by means of that stupendous avenue of sphinxes,
the scattered remains of which yet strew the course of the ancient
roadway.
As I have already said, these half-buried pylons, this solitary obelisk,
those giant heads rising in ghastly resurrection before the gates of the
temple, were magnificent still. But it was as the magnificence of a
splendid prologue to a poem of which only garbled fragments remain.
Beyond that entrance lay a smoky, filthy, intricate labyrinth of lanes
and passages. Mud hovels, mud pigeon-towers, mud yards and a mud mosque,
clustered like wasps’ nests in and about the ruins. Architraves
sculptured with royal titles supported the roofs of squallid cabins.
Stately capitals peeped out from the midst of sheds in which buffaloes,
camels, donkeys, dogs and human beings were seen herding together in
unsavory fellowship. Cocks crew, hens cackled, pigeons cooed, turkeys
gobbled, children swarmed, women were baking and gossiping and all the
sordid routine of Arab life was going on, amid winding alleys that
masked the colonnades and defaced the inscriptions of the Pharaohs. To
trace the plan of this part of the building was then impossible.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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