Egypt -- Description and travel; Egypt -- History -- 19th century; Nile River -- Description and travel
I seem to remember the rest as if it had all happened in a dream.
Leaving the small temple, we turned toward the river, skirted the mud
walls of the native village, and approached the great temple by way of
its main entrance. Here we entered upon what had once been another great
avenue of sphinxes, ram-headed, couchant on plinths deep cut with
hieroglyphic legends, and leading up from some grand landing-place
beside the Nile.
And now the towers that we had first seen as we sailed by in the morning
rose straight before us, magnificent in ruin, glittering to the sun, and
relieved in creamy light against blue depths of sky. One was nearly
perfect; the other, shattered as if by the shock of an earthquake, was
still so lofty than an Arab clambering from block to block midway of its
vast height looked no bigger than a squirrel.
On the threshold of this tremendous portal we again dismounted.
Shapeless crude-brick mounds, marking the limits of the ancient wall of
circuit, reached far away on either side. An immense perspective of
pillars and pylons leading up to a very distant obelisk opened out
before us. We went in, the great walls towering up like cliffs above our
heads, and entered the first court. Here, in the midst of a large
quadrangle open to the sky, stands a solitary column, the last of a
central avenue of twelve, some of which, disjointed by the shock, lie
just as they fell, like skeletons of vertebrate monsters left stranded
by the flood.
Crossing this court in the glowing sunlight, we came to a mighty doorway
between two more propylons--the doorway splendid with colored
bas-reliefs; the propylons mere cataracts of fallen blocks piled up to
right and left in grand confusion. The cornice of the doorway is gone.
Only a jutting fragment of the lintel stone remains. That stone, when
perfect, measured forty feet and ten inches across. The doorway must
have been full a hundred feet in height.
We went on. Leaving to the right a mutilated colossus engraven on arm
and breast with the cartouche of Rameses II, we crossed the shade upon
the threshold and passed into the famous Hypostyle Hall of Seti I.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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