Egypt -- Description and travel; Egypt -- History -- 19th century; Nile River -- Description and travel
Looking up and down the central avenue, we see at the one end a
flame-like obelisk; at the other, a solitary palm against a background
of glowing mountain. To right, to left, showing transversely through
long files of columns, we catch glimpses of colossal bas-reliefs lining
the roofless walls in every direction. The king, as usual, figures in
every group, and performs the customary acts of worship. The gods
receive and approve him. Half in light, half in shadow, these slender,
fantastic forms stand out sharp and clear and colorless; each figure
some eighteen or twenty feet in height. They could scarcely have looked
more weird when the great roof was in its place and perpetual twilight
reigned. But it is difficult to imagine the roof on and the sky shut
out. It all looks right as it is; and one feels, somehow, that such
columns should have nothing between them and the infinite blue depths of
heaven.
The great central avenue was, however, sufficiently lighted by means of
a double row of clerestory windows, some of which are yet standing.
Certain writers have suggested that they may have been glazed; but this
seems improbable for two reasons. Firstly, because one or two of these
huge window-frames yet contain the solid stone gratings which in the
present instance seem to have done duty for a translucent material; and,
secondly, because we have no evidence to show that the early Egyptians,
though familiar since the days of Cheops with the use of the blow-pipe,
ever made glass in sheets, or introduced it in this way into their
buildings.
How often has it been written, and how often must it be repeated, that
the great hall at Karnak is the noblest architectural work ever designed
and executed by human hands? One writer tells us that it covers four
times the area occupied by the cathedral of Nôtre Dame in Paris. Another
measures it against St. Peter’s. All admit their inability to describe
it; yet all attempt the description. To convey a concrete image of the
place to one who has not seen it, is, however, as I have already said,
impossible. If it could be likened to this place or that, the task would
not be so difficult; but there is, in truth, no building in the wide
world to compare with it. The pyramids are more stupendous. The
colosseum covers more ground. The parthenon is more beautiful. Yet in
nobility of conception, in vastness of detail, in majesty of the highest
order, the hall of pillars exceeds them every one. This doorway, these
columns, are the wonder of the world. How was that lintel-stone raised?
How were these capitals lifted? Entering among those mighty pillars,
says a recent observer, “you feel that you have shrunk to the dimensions
and feebleness of a fly.” But I think you feel more than that. You are
stupefied by the thought of the mighty men who made them. You say to
yourself: “There were indeed giants in those days.”
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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