Egypt -- Description and travel; Egypt -- History -- 19th century; Nile River -- Description and travel
M. Deveria suggests that the Temple of Gournah may here be indicated;
but to this it might be objected that Gournah is situated in the lower
and not the upper part of Thebes; that at Gournah there are no great
colonnades and no obelisks; and that, moreover, for some reason at
present unknown to us, the erection of obelisks seems to have been
wholly confined to the eastern bank of the Nile. It is, however,
possible that the works here enumerated may not all have been executed
for one and the same temple. The “sacred edifice in the upper gate of
the abode of Amen” might be the Temple of Luxor, which Rameses did in
fact adorn with the only obelisks we know to be his in Thebes; the
monument erected by him to his divine father Amen (evidently a new
structure) would scarcely be any other than the Ramesseum; while the
“very, very great colonnades,” which are expressly specified as
additions, would seem as if they could only belong to the Hypostyle Hall
of Karnak. The question is at all events interesting; and it is pleasant
to believe that in the Munich statue we have not only a portrait of one
who at Karnak played the part of Michael Angelo to some foregone and
forgotten Bramante, but who was also the Ictinus of the Ramesseum. For
the Ramesseum is the Parthenon of Thebes.
The sun was sinking and the shadows were lengthening when, having made
the round of the principal ruins, we at length mounted our donkeys and
turned toward Luxor. To describe all that we saw after leaving the great
hall would fill a chapter. Huge obelisks of shining granite--some yet
erect, some shattered and prostrate; vast lengths of sculptured walls
covered with wondrous battle subjects, sacerdotal processions, and
elaborate chronicles of the deeds of kings; ruined court-yards
surrounded by files of headless statues; a sanctuary built all of
polished granite, and engraven like a gem; a second hall of pillars
dating back to the early days of Thothmes III; labyrinths of roofless
chambers; mutilated colossi, shattered pylons, fallen columns,
unintelligible foundations and hieroglyphic inscriptions without end,
were glanced at, passed by, and succeeded by fresh wonders. I dare not
say how many small outlying temples we saw in the course of that rapid
survey. In one place we came upon an undulating tract of coarse halfeh
grass, in the midst of which, battered, defaced, forlorn, sat a weird
company of green granite sphinxes and lioness-headed basts. In another,
we saw a magnificent colossal hawk upright on his pedestal in the midst
of a bergfall of ruins. More avenues of sphinxes, more pylons, more
colossi were passed before the road we took in returning brought us
round to that by which we had come. By the time we reached the sheik’s
tomb, it was nearly dusk. We rode back across the plain, silent and
bewildered. Have I not said that it was like a dream?
CHAPTER IX.
THEBES TO ASSUAN.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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