Egypt -- Description and travel; Egypt -- History -- 19th century; Nile River -- Description and travel
Aerated lemonade and cigars were then brought. The governor watched the
process of uncorking with a face of profound interest and drank with the
undisguised greediness of a school-boy. Even the kadi and mudîr relaxed
somewhat of the gravity of their demeanor. To men whose habitual drink
consists of lime-water and sugar, bottled lemonade represents champagne
mousseux of the choicest brand.
Then began the usual attempts at conversation; and only those who have
tried small talk by proxy know how hard it is to supply topics, suppress
yawns and keep up an animated expression of countenance, while the
civilities on both sides are being interpreted by a dragoman.
We began, of course, with the temperature; for in Egypt, where it never
rains and the sun is always shining, the thermometer takes the place of
the weather as a useful platitude. Knowing that Assûan enjoys the
hottest reputation of any town on the surface of the globe, we were
agreeably surprised to find it no warmer than England in September. The
governor accounted for this by saying that he had never known so cold a
winter. We then asked the usual questions about the crops, the height of
the river, and so forth; to all of which he replied with the ease and
_bonhomie_ of a man of the world. Nubia, he said, was healthy--the
date-harvest had been abundant--the corn promised well--the Soudan was
quiet and prosperous. Referring to the new postal arrangements, he
congratulated us on being able to receive and post letters at the second
cataract. He also remarked that the telegraphic wires were now in
working order as far as Khartûm. We then asked how soon he expected the
railway to reach Assûan; to which he replied: “In two years, at latest.”
At length our little stock of topics came to an end and the
entertainment flagged.
“What shall I say next?” asked the dragoman.
“Tell him we particularly wish to see the slave market.”
The smile vanished from the governor’s face. The mudîr set down a glass
of fizzing lemonade, untasted. The kadi all but dropped his cigar. If a
shell had burst in the saloon their consternation could scarcely have
been greater.
The governor, looking very grave, was the first to speak.
“He says there is no slave trade in Egypt and no slave market in
Assûan,” interrupted Talhamy.
Now, we had been told in Cairo, on excellent authority, that slaves were
still bought and sold here, though less publicly than of old; and that
of all the sights a traveler might see in Egypt, this was the most
curious and pathetic.
“No slave market!” we repeated, incredulously.
The governor, the kadi and the mudîr shook their heads, and lifted up
their voices, and said all together, like a trio of mandarins in a comic
opera:
“Là, là, là! Mafeesh bazaar--mafeesh bazaar!” (“No, no, no! No
bazaar--no bazaar!”)
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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