Egypt -- Description and travel; Egypt -- History -- 19th century; Nile River -- Description and travel
At length, however, there must have come a day when for the last time
the tomb of the god was crowned with flowers and the “Lamentations of
Isis” were recited on the threshold of the sanctuary. And there must
have come another day when the cross was carried in triumph up those
painted colonnades and the first Christian mass was chanted in the
precincts of the heathen. One would like to know how these changes were
brought about; whether the old faith died out for want of worshipers, or
was expelled with clamor and violence. But upon this point history is
vague[60] and the graffiti of the time are silent. We only know for
certain that the old went out and the new came in; and that where the
resurrected Osiris was wont to be worshiped according to the most sacred
mysteries of the Egyptian ritual, the resurrected Christ was now adored
after the simple fashion of the primitive Coptic church.
And now the holy island, near which it was believed no fish had power to
swim or bird to fly and upon whose soil no pilgrim might set foot
without permission, became all at once the common property of a populous
community. Courts, colonnades, even terraced roofs, were overrun with
little crude brick dwellings. A small basilica was built at the lower
end of the island. The portico of the great temple was converted into a
chapel and dedicated to St. Stephen. “This good work,” says a Greek
inscription traced there by some monkish hand of the period, “was done
by the well-beloved of God, the Abbot-Bishop Theodore.” Of this same
Theodore, whom another inscription styles “the very holy father,” we
know nothing but his name.
The walls hereabout are full of these fugitive records. “The cross has
conquered and will ever conquer,” writes one anonymous scribe. Others
have left simple signatures; as, for instance: “I, Joseph,” in one place
and “I, Theodosius of Nubia,” in another. Here and there an added word
or two give a more human interest to the autograph. So, in the pathetic
scrawl of one who writes himself “Johannes, a slave,” we seem to read
the story of a life in a single line. These Coptic signatures are all
followed by the sign of the cross.
The foundation of the little basilica, with its apse toward the east and
its two doorways to the west, are still traceable. We set a couple of
our sailors one day to clear away the rubbish at the lower end of the
nave, and found the font--a rough-stone basin at the foot of a broken
column.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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